Expert Advice for Happy, Healthy Pets
The information and guidance shared on our website is provided by our veterinary team to help you better understand your pet’s health, behaviour, and wellbeing. However, every pet is unique. This advice is intended as general guidance and should not replace a consultation with a qualified veterinary professional.
If your pet is unwell, in pain, or you have any concerns about their health, we strongly recommend contacting your vet as soon as possible.
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Many dog owners feel they understand their dog well. However, dogs communicate very differently from humans, and most of their communication happens through body language.
Understanding these signals can help prevent misunderstandings and improve the relationship between dogs and people.
Research shows that most dog bites happen in familiar environments and often involve people the dog already knows. In many cases, the dog has given warning signals beforehand, but these signals were not recognised.
Learning to read dog body language can help keep both people and dogs safe.
Why Dogs Use Body Language
Dogs have lived alongside humans for thousands of years, but they still retain many of their natural instincts such as guarding, herding and hunting.
When a dog feels uncomfortable or threatened, they usually try to communicate this through body language first. Biting is generally a last resort, used when the dog feels they have no other option to make a scary situation stop.
Before this point, dogs often show a range of subtle signals to try to avoid conflict.
Early Warning Signs of Stress
Dogs often give subtle signals when they feel worried or uncomfortable.
Common early signs include:
- Turning their head away
- Lip licking or nose licking
- Yawning when not tired
- Sniffing the ground suddenly
- Raising a paw stiffly (not like ‘giving the paw’)
- Trying to move away
These behaviours are sometimes called calming signals. They are ways dogs try to reduce tension and communicate that they want space.
If you notice these signs, it’s best to give the dog some room.
Considering the Situation
Body language should always be interpreted alongside the situation your dog is in.
For example, a dog shaking their body after a swim is simply drying off. However, dogs may also perform a full body shake after a stressful event, such as meeting an unfamiliar dog or hearing a loud noise. This behaviour can help them release tension.
Looking at both the behaviour and the environment helps you understand what your dog may be feeling.
Signs Your Dog is Uncomfortable
When dogs feel worried or uneasy, their body language changes.
Signs to watch out for include:
- A low or tucked tail
- Stiff body posture
- Ears pinned back
- Avoiding eye contact
- Turning their head away
- Lip licking or repeated yawning
- Freezing or becoming very still
- Whale eye: when a dog turns their head slightly away but keeps their eyes fixed on something, so the white part of the eye becomes clearly visible. This can make the eye look wide or tense.
Some dogs may also roll onto their back but remain stiff rather than relaxed. This can be a sign of appeasement, meaning the dog is trying to show they are not a threat.
If you see these signs, it’s best to give the dog space.
Signs a Dog May Become Aggressive
If a dog feels extremely threatened or frightened, their body language may escalate.
Possible warning signs include:
- A stiff or rigid tail
- Very tense body posture
- Intense staring or fixed eye contact
- Ears pulled tightly forward or flat back
- Showing teeth
- Growling
These behaviours are serious warnings and ignoring them can increase the risk of a bite.
If a dog begins showing these signals, stop interacting and give them space immediately.
Why Dogs Sometimes Bite
Dogs may bite for several reasons, including:
- Fear or anxiety
- Pain or illness
- Feeling trapped or unable to escape
- Lack of socialisation with people or situations
Dogs that have not been gradually introduced to everyday experiences may find normal situations frightening, which can lead to defensive behaviour.
Summary
Dogs communicate clearly through their posture, facial expressions and movement. By learning to recognise these signals, we can respond appropriately and avoid situations that may cause stress.
Understanding what your dog is trying to say helps build trust — and leads to a safer, happier relationship for both of you.
Many common garden and house plants can be harmful to dogs. While some may only cause a mild upset tummy, others can lead to more serious illness, particularly if your dog eats a large amount.
Most dogs will naturally avoid plants that don’t smell or taste right to them. However, curious puppies and young dogs are much more likely to investigate with their mouths.
Knowing what plants to watch out for, and recognising the signs of poisoning, can help you act quickly if something goes wrong.
If you’re worried that your dog has eaten something they shouldn’t have, always contact your vet straight away for advice.

In some cases, only certain parts of a plant are toxic, such as bulbs, berries or leaves. As it’s not always easy to tell which parts are dangerous, it’s safest to keep your dog away from the entire plant.
Most plant poisonings cause mild symptoms, but some can be serious, particularly if several plants are eaten in a short space of time.
It’s also worth remembering that this isn’t a complete list. New plant risks are still being identified, and even plants not known to be toxic can cause problems if eaten in large quantities.
Are There Dog-Friendly Plants?
There’s no guaranteed list of plants that are completely safe for dogs. Plant identification can be tricky, and many plants, even those considered low risk, may still cause stomach upset if chewed or swallowed.
For this reason, it’s best to keep houseplants out of reach and supervise your dog in the garden and on walks.
Signs of Plant Poisoning in Dogs
Symptoms can vary depending on the plant and how much was eaten, but common signs include:
- Drooling or excessive salivation
- Loss of appetite
- Low energy or lethargy
- Vomiting or diarrhoea (sometimes with plant material present)
- Drinking or urinating more than usual
- Skin redness or rashes
- Mouth sores or ulcers
- Pale gums
- Muscle twitching or seizures
- Collapse
If your dog shows any of these signs, or you think they may have eaten a poisonous plant, contact your vet immediately.
Other Garden Hazards to Be Aware of
Gardens and green spaces can contain other hidden dangers:
Compost and grass clippings
These can grow harmful moulds and bacteria so, always store compost securely and keep dogs away from freshly cut grass.
Fungi and mushrooms
Often appearing in warm, damp conditions, especially in autumn and some mushrooms can be life-threatening if eaten.
Pesticides, weed killers and fertilisers
Many garden products are toxic to pets so, please avoid using them where your dog plays, and block off treated areas.
Grass seeds
Grass seeds can become lodged in your dog’s skin, paws, ears or armpits, causing irritation, infection and sometimes serious complications. They’re common in long grass during spring and summer, not just freshly seeded lawns.
Dogs are loved pets in many homes, but even the best-behaved dogs can develop habits that their owners can find frustrating. Pulling on the lead, jumping up at visitors or barking at other dogs are common issues that many owners experience.
The good news is that most unwanted behaviours can be improved with patience, understanding and the right training approach.
Some behaviours are minor annoyances, while others can affect a dog’s wellbeing or even become dangerous if not addressed early.
Does My Dog Need Help?
Small behaviour problems can sometimes be improved by revisiting basic training. For example, if your dog stops coming back when called, practising recall again in a quieter environment with fewer distractions can help rebuild the behaviour.
Dogs benefit from ongoing training throughout their lives. Even well-trained dogs may need occasional refresher training to reinforce good habits.
However, some behaviour problems are more complex and may require professional support.
When to Speak to Your Vet
If your dog’s behaviour changes suddenly or becomes more severe, it is always best to speak to your vet first.
Pain, illness or discomfort can cause behaviour changes in dogs, so it’s best to have a veterinary check-up to diagnose or rule out underlying medical causes before you start behaviour training.
Your vet may also recommend training advice or refer you to a qualified behaviour professional if needed.
Getting Help from Trainers or Behaviourists
If training at home is not working, professional support can be helpful.
A qualified dog trainer can help with common training issues such as:
- Loose lead walking
- Recall
- Jumping up
- Basic obedience
For more serious or complex problems, such as aggression or severe anxiety, a certified dog behaviourist may be recommended. Behaviourists assess the underlying cause of the behaviour and develop a structured training plan for both dog and owner.
Behaviour Modification Training
Behaviour modification focuses on helping dogs learn alternative, more appropriate behaviours but several approaches may be used, depending on the problem.
Reward-Based Training
Reward-based training focuses on reinforcing behaviours you want to see.
This approach may involve using the following as rewards:
- Treats
- Praise
- Play
- Toys
When dogs are rewarded for good behaviour, they are more likely to repeat it.
For example, if your dog chews household items, providing appealing chew toys and rewarding your dog for using them can help redirect the behaviour.
Punishment-based methods can cause fear and stress and can damage the relationship between dog and owner, so they are discouraged.
Counter-Conditioning and Desensitisation
Counter-conditioning and desensitisation aim to change a dog’s emotional response to something they find frightening.
This involves gradually exposing the dog to the trigger at a safe distance while pairing it with something positive, such as treats or praise.
As this technique must be done carefully to avoid making the problem worse, it is best carried out with guidance from a qualified behaviour professional.
This is not to be confused with ‘flooding’ a technique of over-exposing a dog to something they are afraid of to ‘get them over it’. The easiest way to describe flooding is to be put in a room full of spiders if you were terrified of them. This would be most likely to make your fear worse and distress you.
Active Supervision Around Children
Even well-behaved dogs should always be actively supervised when around children.
Children can behave unpredictably and may not recognise when a dog is becoming uncomfortable.
Teaching children how to interact calmly and respectfully with dogs helps reduce the risk of accidents.
Learning to Read Dog Body Language
Dogs communicate constantly through body language. Recognising early signs of stress can help prevent problems before they escalate.
Signs a dog may be uncomfortable include:
- Lip licking
- Yawning
- Turning their head away
- Moving away from a situation
- A stiff body posture
If you notice these signals, giving the dog space can prevent further stress.
Summary
Unwanted behaviour can be frustrating, but with patience and the right support, many dogs improve significantly.
The most important steps are:
- Understanding why the behaviour happens
- Staying calm
- Using positive reinforcement training methods
- Seeking professional help when needed
With time, guidance and consistency, many behaviour challenges can be successfully managed, helping both you and your dog to enjoy a happier life together.
Teaching your puppy where to go to the toilet is one of the first and most important things you’ll do as a new dog owner. The best way to succeed is by creating a consistent routine and sticking to it every day.
Puppies learn at different speeds. Some may understand toilet training within a few weeks, while others take longer. Accidents are a normal part of the learning process, even for puppies who pick things up quickly.
Creating a Daily Routine
Establishing a regular schedule will help your puppy learn when and where they should go to the toilet.
First Thing in the Morning
Take your puppy outside as soon as they wake up. Encourage them to toilet in the garden or designated outdoor area. In the early stages, using a lead can help prevent them from getting distracted and wandering off instead of focusing on the task.
You may also want to use a simple cue word such as ‘toilet’ or ‘wee’ so your puppy begins to associate that word with going to the toilet.
Frequent toilet breaks
Young puppies have small bladders, so cannot hold their urine for long periods. Take your puppy outside roughly every two to three hours during the day. As they grow older, they will gradually gain better bladder control and will need fewer toilet breaks.
After meals and sleep
Puppies usually need to go to the toilet shortly after eating. Taking them outside soon after meals can help prevent accidents indoors. You should also take them outside after naps, as well as after periods of excitement or play.
Rewarding Good Behaviour
When your puppy goes to the toilet outside, reward them immediately with praise and a small treat. This helps them understand that they have done the right thing.
Positive reinforcement encourages puppies to repeat behaviours that earn rewards, making it more likely they will choose to toilet outside in the future.
What to Do if There is an Accident
Never punish your puppy for going to the toilet inside the house. Puppies don’t have accidents deliberately; it simply means they were not taken outside in time.
Instead, clean the area thoroughly and continue following the routine. This helps prevent lingering smells that might attract your puppy back to the same spot.
Learning Your Puppy’s Toilet Signals
Many puppies show clear signs when they need to go to the toilet like:
- sniffing the floor
- circling
- becoming restless
When you notice these behaviours, take your puppy outside immediately and reward them when they toilet in the correct place.
If you are having difficulty toilet training your dog, your vet or veterinary nurse may be able to offer advice. They can also refer you to a qualified behaviourist if additional support is needed.
Some dogs reach adulthood without being fully house trained, often through no fault of their own. This may happen if the training process wasn’t completed when they were young or if they previously lived outdoors.
The good news is that adult dogs can still learn new habits.
With patience, consistency and a clear routine, most dogs can successfully learn to toilet outside.
Why Some Dogs Aren’t House Trained
While many puppies learn house training early, it doesn’t always go smoothly. Some dogs may never have been trained properly, particularly if they were kept in kennels or outdoor environments.
Other dogs may have had inconsistent training, which can lead to confusion about where they should go to the toilet. Teaching an adult dog new habits takes time and commitment, but many dogs learn surprisingly quickly.
How long it takes will depend on several factors, including:
- how consistent the routine is
- how quickly the dog learns
- the dog’s age
- their past experiences with toilet training
Other Reasons Dogs Toilet Indoors
Indoor accidents are not always caused by a lack of house training.
Dogs may also toilet in the house because of:
- stress or tension in the home
- separation anxiety
- territorial marking
- illness or medical issues
If your dog suddenly begins toileting indoors, please speak to your vet to rule out health problems.
Signs Your Dog is Not Fully House Trained
Dogs that are not fully house trained often return to the same areas repeatedly. These locations are frequently near doors, exits or particular rooms.
Some dogs may wee and poo indoors, wee inside but poo outside or poo inside and wee outside.
Many dogs also prefer to toilet when people are not watching. For example, they may leave the room or wait until their owner is out of sight.
This can happen if a dog has previously been punished for toileting indoors. Instead of learning where they should go, they simply learn not to go in front of people.
Dogs that feel anxious about toileting around people may take longer to house train and will need extra patience.
Establishing a New Toilet Routine
Creating a consistent routine is the most effective way to teach an adult dog where to go to the toilet.
Before You Begin
First, thoroughly clean any areas where your dog has previously toileted indoors. Dogs are attracted back to the same spots if the scent remains.
Use a biological washing solution or a pet-safe cleaner that removes odours completely.
Take Your Dog Outside Regularly
Take your dog outside:
- first thing in the morning
- last thing at night
- frequently throughout the day
Choose a specific toilet area in the garden and take your dog to the same place each time.
Let them walk around and sniff the ground, as this helps stimulate toileting.
Avoid playing games during these trips, as the goal is to help your dog focus on going to the toilet.
When your dog toilets outside, calmly praise them.
If nothing happens after about five minutes, bring them back inside but watch them closely. Try again after around 20 minutes.
At first, you may need to make several trips outside until the new routine becomes established.
Supervise Your Dog Indoors
During the early stages of training, supervision is essential.
Keep your dog within sight and watch for signs they may need to go outside.
Pay particular attention after:
- meals
- waking up
- play sessions or excitement
Signs Your Dog Needs the Toilet
Common signs include:
- sniffing the floor
- circling
- restlessness
- heading towards areas where they have toileted before
If you notice these behaviours, take your dog outside immediately.
Using a Dog Crate
Dog crates can be helpful when used correctly. Most dogs avoid soiling the area where they sleep.
If your dog is comfortable with a crate, it can be useful when you cannot supervise them directly.
However, the crate must be introduced positively so your dog feels safe and relaxed inside it, as a distressed dog may still toilet in the crate.
When You Cannot Supervise
When Leaving the House
During the early stages of training, it is best not to leave your dog alone for long periods.
If you must leave for a short time (less than two hours), your dog can stay in their crate if they are comfortable there and have had a chance to exercise and toilet beforehand.
For longer absences, confine your dog to a single room that is easy to clean in case of accidents.
At Night
Most adult dogs can sleep through the night without needing to toilet. However, some may still need a night-time break while learning.
Placing your dog’s bed or crate near your bedroom can help you hear if they wake up and need to go outside.
If they do wake up, take them outside calmly and quietly, then return them to bed without exciting them.
If accidents occur overnight, you may need to set an alarm temporarily until the routine becomes established.
What to Do About Accidents
Never punish your dog for accidents discovered after the event.
Dogs cannot connect punishment with something that happened earlier. Instead, they may become anxious when you return home, which can worsen the problem.
Simply clean the area thoroughly and continue with the training routine.
The ‘Guilty’ Look
Many owners believe their dog ‘knows they’ve done wrong’ because they appear guilty.
In reality, this behaviour is called appeasement behaviour. The dog is responding to their owner’s body language or tone rather than feeling guilt about the accident.
Dogs showing this behaviour are often trying to reduce tension or avoid conflict.
Building Long-Term Habits
Continue the routine for at least two weeks. During this time, your dog will begin to associate toileting outside with praise and rewards.
If they are not given opportunities to toilet indoors, they will gradually develop the habit of going outside instead.
Once progress is being made, you can slowly increase the time between trips outside while continuing to watch for signs that your dog needs to go.
Maintaining a regular schedule for feeding, exercise and toilet breaks will make the process easier.
House training an adult dog can take time and effort, but consistency and patience will usually lead to success.
If your dog’s eye looks red, puffy or irritated, it’s easy to assume it’s just a minor infection but many different conditions can cause these signs.
Eye problems can worsen quickly, so early treatment is very important. If you notice any change in your dog’s eyes, please contact your veterinary practice promptly. Delaying treatment can lead to more serious complications, including permanent damage to sight.
General Information
Redness and swelling are signs of inflammation. To help your vet assess the problem, make a note of any other symptoms, such as:
- Squinting or holding one eye closed
- Excessive blinking
- Rubbing at the face
- Watery, sticky or coloured discharge
- Sensitivity to light
- Cloudiness
- A change in the size or shape of the eye
If your dog appears painful, lethargic, or distressed, ask for an urgent appointment.
Common Causes of Red or Swollen Eyes
There are many possible causes, including:
Conjunctivitis
Inflammation of the lining of the eyelids and eye surface. This can be caused by bacteria, viruses, allergies or irritants.
Corneal Ulcers
A scratch or wound on the surface of the eye. These are painful and may cause redness, discharge and squinting. Ulcers require prompt treatment.
Foreign Bodies
Grass seeds, dust, sand, smoke or minor trauma (including a scratch from another animal) can irritate the eye.
Dry Eye (Keratoconjunctivitis Sicca)
Reduced tear production can leave the eye dry, inflamed and uncomfortable. Without treatment, this condition can cause long-term damage.
Allergies
Environmental or skin allergies can lead to itchy, inflamed eyes.
Eyelid or Eyelash Problems
Inward- or outward-turning eyelids, or eyelashes that rub against the eye, can cause ongoing irritation.
Glaucoma
Increased pressure inside the eye. The eye may appear red, cloudy, painful or larger than normal. Glaucoma is an emergency and requires immediate veterinary attention.
Uveitis
Inflammation inside the eye. You may notice changes in pupil size, colour or cloudiness. Uveitis can be linked to underlying illness.
Exposure Keratitis
More common in flat-faced breeds such as Pugs, Shih Tzus and Bulldogs. Because their eyes are more prominent, they may not blink fully, leading to dryness and inflammation.
Masses or Tumours
Growths affecting the eyelids or structures around the eye can cause irritation and swelling.
Ticks are small parasites that feed on the blood of animals and people. While they may look unpleasant, the main concern with ticks is that they can pass on infections, including Lyme disease. Ticks are most active during the warmer months and are commonly picked up in grassy or rural areas, especially where wildlife is present.
If you find a tick on your dog, it’s important to remove it promptly and correctly. Dogs that spend a lot of time outdoors, particularly in spring and summer, may benefit from regular tick prevention and your vet can help you decide what’s most suitable.
What Does a Tick Look Like On a Dog?
Ticks can be tricky to spot at first. When newly attached, they’re often no bigger than a pinhead and may look like a small lump or skin tag. As they feed, they swell and can grow to about the size of a small pea.
They are usually round or oval, shiny in appearance, and range in colour from brown or grey to pink or bluish grey. If you look closely, you may be able to see a tiny head and eight legs near the front of the body. As they are easy to miss when small, it’s a good idea to check your dog regularly after walks.
How Do Dogs Get Ticks?
Ticks don’t jump or fly. Instead, they wait on grass or low vegetation and cling on when a dog brushes past. Once on your dog’s coat, they crawl along until they find a suitable place to attach and feed.
Where Are Ticks Found?
Ticks are most common between spring and autumn, but they can be active year-round in mild conditions.
You’re more likely to come across them in:
- Woodlands and forests
- Long grass and meadows
- Bogland and farmland
- Gardens in areas with lots of wildlife, such as deer or sheep
How to Check Your Dog For Ticks
After walks, especially in higher-risk areas, run your hands gently over your dog’s body. Ticks often attach around the head, ears, neck, armpits, groin and tummy. Feeling for small bumps can help you spot them early, before they’ve had time to feed.
How To Safely Remove a Tick From a Dog
Removing a tick properly reduces the risk of infection. Using a tick-removal tool is the safest option and these are widely available from pet shops and veterinary practices.
In simple terms, removal involves gently parting your dog’s fur, sliding the tool under the tick, and slowly twisting until it comes away. Try not to squeeze the tick’s body, as this can increase the chance of infection. Once removed, check that no parts are left behind and dispose of the tick safely. If you’re unsure or worried about doing this yourself, please contact your local veterinary practice.
Never crush a tick with your fingers or try to burn it off or smother it with oils or creams.
Tick Prevention For Dogs
It’s not possible to prevent ticks completely, but you can reduce the risk by combining sensible precautions with parasite control.
Some helpful steps include:
- Sticking to paths and avoiding long grass during peak tick season
- Checking your dog regularly after walks
- Using a vet-recommended parasite treatment that covers ticks
Always speak to your vet before starting any new treatment, especially if you have both dogs and cats, as some dog products are toxic to cats.
When to Contact Your Vet
If you’ve removed a tick and your dog seems well, there’s usually no need to worry.
However, contact your vet if:
- You think part of the tick may still be attached
- The bite site becomes red, swollen or sore
- Your dog seems unwell in the days or weeks after a tick bite
Tick-Borne Diseases
Some ticks can carry infections. While these illnesses are uncommon, it’s important to be aware of them.
Lyme disease
Lyme disease is a bacterial infection that can affect dogs and people. Symptoms in dogs may include:
- Lethargy or depression
- Fever
- Loss of appetite
- Lameness or swollen joints
These signs can also be caused by other conditions, so always speak to your vet if you’re concerned. Lyme disease can usually be treated successfully if caught early.
Other tick-borne diseases, such as babesiosis or tick-borne encephalitis, are extremely rare in Ireland but can occur, particularly in dogs that have travelled abroad.
Can Humans Get Ticks?
Yes, ticks can attach to people as well as animals. While they can’t survive on humans for long, they can still bite and potentially pass on infections. Please see the HSE’s advice here.
Seeing your dog vomit or develop diarrhoea can be worrying, but the good news is that these problems are very common and are often mild. In many cases, they happen because a dog has eaten something that doesn’t agree with them, eaten too much, or had a sudden change in diet. This can irritate the stomach and intestines, leading to a condition called gastroenteritis.
Most dogs recover quickly with simple care. However, vomiting and diarrhoea can occasionally be signs of poisoning or a more serious illness, so it’s important to know when to seek veterinary advice.
Always contact your vet if your dog is repeatedly vomiting, has ongoing diarrhoea, seems unwell, or if they are a puppy, an older dog, or have an existing health condition.
What is Gastroenteritis?
Gastroenteritis means inflammation of the stomach and intestines. Dogs with gastroenteritis usually develop vomiting and diarrhoea and may feel uncomfortable or off their food. Thankfully, many cases settle within a few days with the right treatment and care.
A more serious form, called haemorrhagic gastroenteritis, can cause bloody vomit or diarrhoea and needs urgent veterinary attention.
Common Signs to Watch For
Dogs with an upset stomach may show a combination of the following:
- Vomiting
- Diarrhoea
- A painful or tense tummy
- Loss of appetite
- Low energy or lethargy
If these signs come on suddenly, worsen, or don’t improve, it’s important to speak to your vet promptly. While rare, severe gastroenteritis can be life-threatening, particularly in young dogs.
What Causes Dogs to Vomit or Have Diarrhoea?
There are many possible causes, ranging from minor to serious. These include dietary upsets, infections, parasites, food allergies, stress, and swallowing something they shouldn’t. In some cases, vomiting or diarrhoea can be linked to conditions affecting other organs, such as the pancreas, liver or kidneys.
Your vet will help work out the most likely cause, based on your dog’s symptoms, history and a physical examination.
When Should I Contact My Vet?
If your dog vomits once and then seems bright, comfortable and otherwise normal, you may be able to monitor them closely at home. However, you should contact your vet straight away if you notice any of the following:
- Repeated or continuous vomiting
- Blood in their vomit or diarrhoea
- Diarrhoea lasting more than 24–48 hours
- Severe watery or bloody diarrhoea
- Lethargy, collapse or disorientation
- Signs of dehydration (sticky gums, sunken eyes)
- Ongoing retching or a swollen abdomen, which can be an emergency
Trust your instincts, if something doesn’t feel right, it’s always best to seek veterinary advice.
How is Gastroenteritis Diagnosed?
Your vet will usually start with a full examination and ask questions about your dog’s recent diet, behaviour and surroundings. This helps them assess whether your dog may have eaten something unsuitable or been exposed to toxins.
If a more serious condition is suspected, further tests such as blood work, X-rays or scans may be recommended.
Treatment and Recovery
Treatment depends on the underlying cause and how unwell your dog is. Many dogs are treated with medication to settle vomiting and diarrhoea, alongside a short period on a bland, easily digestible diet.
Keeping your dog hydrated is vital. Mild cases can often be managed at home, but more severe cases may need fluids, through a drip, to prevent dehydration.
Most dogs start to feel better within a few days. If your dog isn’t improving, or their symptoms worsen, please contact your vet.
Caring for your dog at home (mild cases only)
If your dog has had a mild bout of vomiting or diarrhoea and seems otherwise well, your vet may suggest supportive care at home, such as:
- Small, bland meals given little and often
- Plenty of fresh water, offered regularly
- Rest, with no strenuous exercise while they recover
Never fast puppies, elderly dogs or dogs with other illnesses, unless your vet advises it.
Understanding Vomiting, Retching and Regurgitation
These can look similar but have different causes:
Vomiting requires effort to bring up digested or partially digested stomach contents.
Retching is gagging without producing much vomit. Repeated retching can be a medical emergency.
Regurgitation is the passive bringing up of undigested food, often soon after eating.
If you’re unsure which your dog is experiencing, your vet can help.
Types of Dog Vomit
What your dog brings up can give useful clues about what’s going on in their stomach and photos are a great help to your vet.
Vomit may contain:
Bile (stomach acid): usually yellow or green in colour and often frothy or foamy.
Food: this may be partially digested or completely undigested and is commonly brown but can vary depending on what your dog has eaten.
Blood: this can appear bright red, dark brown or black. Blood that has been partially digested may look like coffee grounds.
If you notice blood in your dog’s vomit, contact your vet straight away.
Grass: many dogs eat more grass when they feel nauseous, so it’s not unusual to see this in vomit.
Sharing your life with a cat can be hugely rewarding. However, caring for a cat properly is a long-term financial commitment. Before bringing a new cat or kitten home, it’s important to understand the likely costs involved over their lifetime.
Many cats live well into their mid to late teens, and some reach 18–20 years of age. Planning ahead helps ensure you can provide consistent care throughout that time.
Below is a guide to the typical costs associated with cat ownership in Ireland. Please note that prices can vary depending on location, product choice and your cat’s individual needs.
Ongoing Monthly Costs
Regular monthly expenses generally include:
- Food: €25–€70 (depending on brand and dietary needs)
- Litter: €20–€35
- Routine parasite prevention: €10–€20
- Pet insurance (if chosen): €20–€35
Monthly costs often fall between €75 and €150 but may be higher if your cat requires a specialist diet.
Annual Costs
In addition to monthly expenses, you should budget for:
- Annual veterinary health check and vaccinations: €60–€120
- Professional pet sitting or boarding (if needed): €150+ depending on duration
Unexpected illness or injury can result in significant veterinary bills. Insurance can help spread risk, but policies vary. Look for cover that protects your cat for ongoing conditions over their lifetime rather than for a limited period.
Microchipping and Neutering
Microchipping is strongly recommended for all cats. It greatly increases the chances of being reunited if your cat goes missing. While not currently a legal requirement for cats in Ireland, it is considered best practice for responsible ownership.
Outdoor Access and Cat Flaps
If you plan to allow outdoor access, a microchip-activated cat flap is recommended. These open only for your cat, helping prevent entry by other animals. Installation costs depend on the type of door or wall involved.
Even if your cat goes outdoors, it is advisable to provide an indoor litter tray at all times.
Planning for the Future
Beyond everyday expenses, please also consider:
- Emergency veterinary treatment
- Dental care
- Age-related health conditions
- Long-term medication
- Holiday care
The overall yearly cost of owning a cat in Ireland can easily exceed €1,500 per year, depending on circumstances.
Making an Informed Decision
Cats depend entirely on us for their welfare. Before taking on the responsibility, make sure you are comfortable with the long-term financial commitment as well as the time and care involved.
If you would like advice about preparing for a new cat, neutering support, or responsible ownership, please chat to your local animal rescue organisation or veterinary practice.
Vaccinations play a vital role in protecting dogs from serious and potentially life-threatening diseases. Whether you have a new puppy or an adult dog, keeping their vaccinations up to date is one of the most important steps you can take to safeguard their health.
This page explains why vaccinations matter and which ones your dog may need.
Why are Vaccinations Important?
Vaccines help your dog’s immune system recognise and fight dangerous infections, before they can cause illness. Many of the diseases we vaccinate against are highly contagious and can be fatal, particularly in young puppies or dogs with weaker immune systems.
Keeping your dog vaccinated also helps protect other dogs in the community by reducing the spread of disease.
Vaccination is often required if your dog:
- Stays in boarding kennels or doggy day care
- Attends training classes, shows or group activities
- Travels abroad
Which Vaccinations Does My Dog Need?
All dogs should receive core vaccinations, which protect against the most serious and widespread diseases.
Core vaccines protect against:
Parvovirus – a highly contagious virus causing severe vomiting and diarrhoea.
Canine distemper – a serious disease affecting the lungs, gut, immune system and nervous system.
Infectious hepatitis (adenovirus) – damages the liver, kidneys and blood vessels.
Leptospirosis – a bacterial infection that can cause kidney and liver failure and can also infect humans.
Optional (Non-Core) Vaccines
Some dogs may also benefit from additional vaccines depending on their lifestyle:
Kennel cough – recommended for dogs that mix with other dogs or attend kennels or day care.
Rabies – legally required for dogs travelling outside Ireland.
Your vet will help you decide which vaccinations are appropriate for your dog.
Keeping Unvaccinated Dogs Safe
If your puppy or dog is not yet fully vaccinated:
- Avoid public places where dogs gather
- Do not allow contact with unvaccinated dogs outside your household
- Stick to secure, low-risk areas such as your own garden
Once vaccinations are complete, your dog can safely begin exploring the wider world.
Encounters between dogs and deer can happen unexpectedly, so it is important for owners to manage their dogs carefully in these environments.
Most deer will try to avoid people and dogs. However, if they feel threatened or if a dog chases them, the situation can quickly become dangerous for both the wildlife and your dog.
Before visiting forests, parks or nature reserves, it is also helpful to check if there are local rules requiring dogs to remain on a lead to protect wildlife.
Your dog should always be microchipped and wearing a collar with an ID tag, with contact details kept up to date.
Why it’s Important to Prevent Chasing
Allowing a dog to chase wildlife can cause serious harm. Deer can become exhausted or injured when pursued, and dogs themselves may be injured if a deer defends itself.
In Ireland, dog owners are legally responsible for keeping their dogs under control. If a dog worries livestock or wildlife, the owner may face penalties under Irish dog control legislation.
Preventing your dog from chasing wildlife protects both your dog and the animals sharing the environment.
Times When Deer May Be More Defensive
Although deer usually avoid confrontation, they may behave more defensively during certain times of the year.
You should be especially cautious during:
- Birthing season (May to July) when females may be protecting young calves
- Rutting season (September to November) when male deer may be more territorial
During these periods, keeping your dog close and avoiding areas where deer are present is particularly important.
What to Do if a Deer Approaches
If a deer moves towards you or appears agitated:
- Remain calm and move away slowly
- Try to place a large object, such as a tree, between you and the deer
- Give the animal space so it can move away safely
Most deer will leave once they feel they are no longer threatened.
Deer, Ticks and Your Dog
Areas where deer live can have higher numbers of ticks.
After walking your dog in areas where deer are present:
- Check your dog’s coat carefully for ticks
- Remove any ticks promptly using an appropriate tick removal tool
- Consider using preventative tick treatments recommended by your veterinary practice
Regular tick checks are particularly important after walks in woodland, long grass or bogland.
Bringing a puppy into your life is exciting. For many families, it marks the beginning of years of companionship, fun and loyalty.
However, behind some puppies advertised online or sold through classified sites, lurks breeding facilities where dogs are bred only for profit.
Puppies are not blank slates, they are a combination of genes, breed traits and the first few weeks of their lives, the environment and experiences they have been subjected to.
Puppy farming remains a significant welfare concern, so we strongly advocate for people to adopt a dog or puppy where possible.
Unfortunately, many people unknowingly support unscrupulous breeders, simply because they don’t know what to look out for when buying a puppy.
This page will help you understand:
- How puppy farming operates in Ireland
- The laws designed to regulate dog breeding
- The warning signs when buying a puppy
- How to find a responsible breeder or adopt safely
Most importantly, it will help you make a choice that protects both your future dog and the welfare of breeding animals.
How Confident Are You That You Could Recognise a Puppy Farmer?
Many people feel confident; until they see the warning signs.

The Reality of Puppy Farming in Ireland
Ireland has historically been one of the largest exporters of dogs in Europe. While some breeders operate responsibly, there are also dog breeding establishments where dogs are kept for the commercial production of puppies.
While poor welfare can take place at any sized breeding establishment, some have very large numbers of breeding dogs and very few staff to look after them.
Even when licensed, dog breeding can raise serious welfare concerns if standards are not properly monitored or enforced.
Dogs in intensive breeding environments may experience:
- Repeated breeding cycles
- Limited socialisation
- Confinement for long periods
- Health or behavioural issues
When puppies from these environments are sold to families, the consequences can include veterinary problems, behavioural challenges and emotional distress for both the dogs and their owners.
How to Find a Responsible Breeder
If you decide to buy a puppy rather than adopt, take time to research the breeder carefully.
A responsible breeder will:
- Allow you to visit the premises more than once
- Show you the puppy happily interacting with their mother
- Provide health records and microchip information
- Ask questions about the home the puppy is going to
- Raise puppies in a clean, enriched environment
They will also be transparent about their breeding practices and happy to discuss the long-term welfare of their dogs.
What Does Irish Law Say?
Ireland has introduced legislation intended to regulate dog breeding and improve transparency for buyers.
Two important pieces of legislation are:
Dog Breeding Establishments Act 2010
This law requires any premises with six or more female dogs capable of breeding to register as Dog Breeding Establishments (DBEs).
Local authorities are responsible for inspecting and maintaining registers of these establishments.
However, registration alone does not guarantee high welfare standards, and buyers must still carry out careful checks.
Sale, Supply and Advertising of Pets Regulations 2020
These regulations were introduced to improve transparency in the sale of pets.
They require that:
- Advertisements for pets must include the seller’s registration or DBE number
- The puppy’s microchip number must be provided
- The puppy’s date of birth and age must be stated
- Sellers must provide identification and traceability for pets
These measures are designed to help buyers trace where a puppy came from and discourage illegal breeding and trading. However, many buyers are not aware of these rules, which means illegal or misleading adverts can still go unnoticed.
Consider Adoption
There are hundreds of dogs in Ireland right now waiting for homes through animal charities and rescue organisations, and they often have puppies available for adoption.
Adopting a dog can be incredibly rewarding and also helps reduce the demand that fuels large-scale breeding, as well as creating space for another dog in a rescue.
Rescue centres can also help match dogs to suitable homes based on lifestyle and experience.
Every Buyer Has the Power to Make a Difference
Puppy farming continues because there is demand for puppies.
By choosing where and how you get your dog, you can help shape the future of dog welfare in Ireland.
Before bringing home a puppy:
- Take time to research rescues, breeders, dog breeds
- Ask lots of questions
- Walk away if something doesn’t feel right
Choosing responsibly protects not only your future dog, but also the welfare of the dogs used for breeding. Unscrupulous breeders only breed because there’s a demand for their puppies!
There are many different types of dog food available in pet shops, supermarkets and veterinary practices. Whatever type you choose, it should be labelled as complete dog food.
A complete food contains all the nutrients, vitamins and minerals your dog needs for a balanced diet. Complementary foods (such as mixers or toppers) do not provide full nutrition on their own.
Complete dog food comes in several forms, including dry and wet, so you can choose the option that best suits your dog and your lifestyle.
Raw or Home-Prepared Diets
Some owners choose to feed raw or home-cooked diets made from meat, fish, rice or vegetables.
This is the most complicated way to feed a dog and carries a high risk of nutritional imbalance if not properly formulated. Homemade diets are unlikely to provide all essential nutrients unless carefully designed by a qualified veterinary nutritionist.
Raw diets may also pose health risks due to bacterial contamination.
If you are considering this type of feeding, speak to your vet first.
Prescription and Special Diets
Some dogs require special diets due to medical conditions such as:
- Diabetes
- Food allergies
- Kidney disease
- Joint problems
- Heart disease
Some therapeutic diets are available in pet shops, but many require a veterinary prescription.
If you think your dog may benefit from a specific diet, consult your vet.
All dogs must have constant access to clean, fresh drinking water.
How Much Should I Feed My Dog?
The correct amount depends on:
- Breed
- Size
- Age
- Activity level
- Body condition
Feeding guidelines on the packaging provide a useful starting point. Weighing your dog’s food using scales can help avoid overfeeding.
If your dog is overweight or underweight, feed according to their target weight, not their current weight. Your vet can help you determine a healthy weight.
For many of us, throwing a tennis ball for a dog feels like harmless, happy fun. Unfortunately, what looks like a simple game can sometimes carry serious risks. Tennis balls aren’t designed with dogs in mind, and for some pets they can pose dangers to both physical safety and long-term dental health.
Where possible, it’s best to swap tennis balls for toys and balls made specifically for dogs, ones that are safer, more durable and kinder to their teeth.
The Risk of Choking and Swallowing
Tennis balls are just the right size, and bounce, to cause problems, particularly for larger dogs. When a ball is caught at speed, it can slip to the back of the mouth and become lodged in the throat, blocking the airway. This is a veterinary emergency and can quickly become life-threatening.
Balls designed for dogs are usually:
- Large enough that they can’t be swallowed
- Firm without being slippery
- Easy to grip and carry safely
Balls attached to a rope are especially useful, as they can be retrieved quickly if they slip too far back in the mouth.
For balls without a rope, choosing ones with a textured, non-slip surface and built-in air holes is important. These features help prevent the airway from being fully blocked if an accident does occur.
Because of their size and strength, large dogs are particularly at risk, and we would strongly advise against using tennis balls for them at all.
How Tennis Balls Can Damage Teeth
Another hidden issue with tennis balls is what they do to your dog’s teeth over time. The familiar fuzzy coating is surprisingly abrasive.
When dogs repeatedly chew or carry tennis balls, that surface acts like fine sandpaper on their teeth. Gradually, it can wear down the protective enamel, leading to blunted teeth and exposing the more sensitive layers underneath.
As enamel wears away, dogs may develop:
- Tooth sensitivity or pain
- Increased risk of infection
- Weakened teeth that are more likely to fracture
Once the inner pulp of a tooth becomes exposed, it can be extremely painful and requires veterinary treatment.
Other Hidden Dangers
Dental damage isn’t the only concern. Tennis balls can also break apart, especially when chewed by strong jaws.
This can lead to:
Choking, if pieces become lodged in the throat.
Intestinal blockages, if fragments are swallowed.
Digestive upset, particularly if dyes or materials not intended for pets are ingested.
Blockages in the gut are a serious condition and often require emergency surgery.
Safer Alternatives for Play and Chewing
The good news is that there are plenty of dog-friendly options that allow your pet to enjoy playtime safely.
Veterinary-approved toys to consider include:
- Rubber toys, which are durable and gentle on teeth
- Toys on ropes, especially for larger dogs, for added safety and control
- Dental chew toys, designed to clean teeth without wearing them down
- Appropriately sized balls, made specifically for dogs, with air holes and non-slip surfaces
These toys are designed to withstand chewing while protecting both your dog’s teeth and their airway.
Supporting Your Dog’s Dental Health
Alongside safe toys, good dental care plays an important role in your dog’s overall wellbeing.
Helpful habits include:
- Avoiding abrasive toys that encourage constant chewing
- Providing dog-safe dental chews and toothpaste
- Booking regular veterinary dental checks to catch problems early
If you notice changes such as reluctance to chew, drooling, bad breath, or pawing at the mouth, it’s important to seek veterinary advice.
If you’re unsure which toys are best for your dog’s size, age or chewing style, your vet or vet nurse will be happy to guide you.
Tail docking of dogs is illegal in Ireland, except where it is carried out for genuine medical reasons by a registered veterinary practitioner.
Tail docking is the removal of all or part of a puppy’s tail. Traditionally, this was done in very young puppies, often without anaesthetic and often for appearance or breed standards.
Please note that tail docking is not the same as a medical amputation.
A tail amputation is carried out by a veterinary surgeon under full anaesthetic for medical reasons, such as a severe injury, infection, or cancer. This procedure is done to protect the dog’s health and welfare.
Is Tail Docking Legal in the Republic of Ireland?
Under the Animal Health and Welfare Act 2013, tail docking of dogs is illegal in Ireland except where it is carried out for genuine medical reasons by a veterinary practitioner.
The Act makes it an offence to carry out, or cause to be carried out, a procedure that amounts to the mutilation of an animal, unless it is for necessary veterinary treatment.
This means:
- Docking a puppy’s tail for cosmetic reasons is illegal.
- Docking to prevent possible future injury is not permitted.
- Only a vet can remove part or, all of a tail, and only where it is medically necessary.
- It is also illegal to arrange for someone else to dock a dog’s tail on your behalf.
Penalties under Irish law can include fines, prosecution, and other legal consequences.
Why is Tail Docking Considered a Welfare Issue?
The Animal Health and Welfare Act 2013 recognises that animals must be protected from unnecessary suffering.
Tail docking raises serious welfare concerns, including:
- Immediate pain when the tail is removed
- Risk of infection or complications
- Possible long-term nerve pain
- Reduced ability to communicate normally
Dogs use their tails to express emotions such as fear, excitement, anxiety, and friendliness. Removing part of their tail can interfere with this natural communication.
What if My Dog Injures Their Tail?
If your dog suffers a serious tail injury, your vet may recommend amputation.
This is a medical procedure, carried out under anaesthetic and done in the best interests of the dog’s health and comfort. This is legal and appropriate when required for welfare reasons.
Key Points for Irish Dog Owners
- Cosmetic tail docking is illegal in the Republic of Ireland.
- Only a veterinary surgeon can remove part of a tail, and only for medical reasons.
- The law exists to protect dogs from unnecessary pain and suffering.
If you are unsure about your dog’s tail health or have concerns about an injury, contact your local veterinary practice for advice. Protecting animal welfare is not just good practice, it is a legal responsibility in Ireland.
It is normal for dogs to experience stress occasionally. However, frequent or long-term stress can lead to behavioural problems, including anxiety, fearfulness or defensive behaviour. In some cases, chronic stress can also affect a dog’s physical health.
Dogs may become stressed for many different reasons, including loud noises, unfamiliar environments, changes in routine or lack of mental stimulation.
Learning to recognise the early signs of stress can help owners respond quickly and prevent problems from developing.
Signs of Stress in Dogs
Dogs communicate how they feel through their body language. It is important to look at the dog’s overall behaviour and the situation, rather than focusing on a single signal.
What Causes Stress in Dogs?
Stress can be triggered by many different factors. Common causes include:
Fear – loud noises such as fireworks or thunderstorms
Changes in routine – different feeding, walking or sleeping times
New environments – unfamiliar places or busy areas
Frustration or boredom – lack of exercise or mental stimulation
Social stress – uncomfortable interactions with people or other animals
Dogs can also be affected by the emotions of the people around them. If household members are stressed or anxious, dogs may pick up on these changes.
Defensive Behaviour
If a dog feels threatened or overwhelmed, they may display defensive behaviours to try to stop something from happening or to create distance.
These behaviours may include:
- Stiffening and staring
- Growling
- Showing teeth
- Snapping
- Biting
In most cases, dogs will have shown earlier signs of stress before reaching this stage. Recognising those early signals can help prevent situations from escalating.
How to Help a Stressed Dog
Once you recognise the signs of stress, there are several ways to help your dog feel calmer and more comfortable.
Remove the source of stress
If possible, move your dog away from the situation that is causing distress. This may mean leaving a busy environment or providing a quiet space at home.
Provide a safe place to rest
Dogs benefit from having a quiet area where they can relax without being disturbed, such as a comfortable bed or crate. This space should always be respected by other household members.
Ensure adequate exercise
Regular exercise is important for both physical and mental wellbeing. Walks provide opportunities for dogs to explore, sniff and engage with their environment.
Provide mental stimulation
Interactive toys, puzzle feeders and training exercises can help keep a dog’s mind engaged and reduce boredom-related stress.
Stay calm
Dogs are very sensitive to human emotions, so remaining calm and speaking in a relaxed tone, can help reassure your dog during stressful situations.
Avoid punishment
Punishing a stressed dog can make their anxiety worse. Instead, focus on reward-based training and calm management of situations that trigger stress.
When to Seek Professional Help
If your dog frequently shows signs of stress, anxiety or aggression, it is important to seek professional advice.
Speak to your vet first to rule out any medical causes. They may recommend working with a qualified dog behaviourist or trainer to help identify triggers and develop a plan to improve your dog’s wellbeing.
Early intervention can help prevent stress from developing into more serious behavioural problems.
Walks should be enjoyable for both you and your dog. However, many dogs develop a habit of pulling on the lead, which can make walks stressful or uncomfortable.
In most cases, dogs pull because they are excited, curious, or have simply learned that pulling gets them where they want to go faster. The good news is that with patience and consistent training, most dogs can learn to walk calmly on a loose lead.
Why Dogs Pull on the Lead
Pulling usually develops over time. Each time a dog pulls and still moves forward, they learn that pulling works.
Other common reasons include:
- Excitement about the walk
- Wanting to reach something interesting
- Having lots of pent-up energy
- Lack of early lead training
Because walking at a human pace is slower than a dog’s natural pace, learning to walk calmly beside us can take time.
Preparing for Training
Before starting lead training:
- Let your dog burn off some energy with play in the garden
- Bring plenty of small, high-value treats
- Ask your dog to sit calmly before attaching the lead
Reward calm behaviour before leaving the house. This helps prevent your dog becoming overly excited whenever the lead appears.
If your dog becomes too excited, briefly put the lead away and try again once they have settled.
Teaching Loose Lead Walking
The most effective technique is simple: loose lead walking earns rewards and forward movement, pulling does not.
Step 1 – Walk slowly
Start walking and encourage your dog to stay beside you.
When the lead remains loose:
- Praise your dog
- Give a small treat
This helps your dog understand that staying close to you is rewarding.
Step 2 – Stop when your dog pulls
If your dog pulls ahead:
- Stop walking immediately
- Wait until the lead becomes loose again
When your dog moves back towards you, reward them and continue walking.
At first, you may need to stop many times during a single walk. Consistency is key, and most dogs begin to understand the pattern with practice.
Step 3 – Reward the behaviour you want
Dogs repeat behaviours that are rewarding.
Whenever your dog walks beside you with a loose lead:
- Offer praise
- Give treats regularly
- Continue moving forward
This teaches your dog that walking calmly keeps the walk going.
Using Treats During Training
Treats are a powerful training tool. They are not bribery; they are a reward for good behaviour.
Choose treats your dog finds very appealing, such as:
- Small pieces of cooked chicken
- Small pieces of cooked liver
High-value rewards help your dog stay focused on you, even when distractions appear.
Over time, treats can gradually be reduced and replaced with praise or play.
Choosing the Right Equipment
Harnesses
For dogs that pull strongly, a well-fitted harness is often recommended. Harnesses reduce pressure on the neck and help prevent injury, once they don’t inhibit natural movement as some ‘anti-pull’ harnesses do. If you are in any doubt about which harness is best for your dog, please ask you vet or vet nurse for advice.
Avoid equipment designed to cause pain or discomfort, such as choke chains or prong collars.
Headcollars
For very strong dogs or reactive dogs, a headcollar may provide extra control during training. However, if used incorrectly, there is potential for injury to the neck or even the eyes.
Headcollars work similarly to horse headcollars, allowing gentle steering from under the chin.
However, they must be introduced gradually and positively. Many dogs initially find them unusual, so slow training at home is important before using them on walks.
A headcollar should be seen as a training aid rather than a permanent solution.
Helping Your Dog Stay Calm on Walks
Additional tips that can help include:
- Practising training in quiet areas first
- Allowing time for sniffing and exploring
- Providing daily play or off-lead exercise
- Being consistent on every walk
Dogs enjoy exploring the world through scent, so allowing them to sniff is the highlight of their day and helps them feel content as they have been given the opportunity to express their natural behaviour.
Be Patient
Training a dog to stop pulling can take time, especially if the habit has been learned over many months or years.
The most important things are consistency, patience and positive reinforcement. With practice and encouragement, most dogs learn that walking calmly beside you is the best way to enjoy their walk.
Bringing a puppy home is an exciting time, and getting their nutrition right from the start is essential for healthy growth and development.
Before You Bring Your Puppy Home
Ask the breeder or rescue centre what brand and type of food your puppy is currently eating. By eight weeks of age, puppies should be fully weaned from their mother and eating solid food.
A responsible breeder or rescue organisation should provide a small supply of your puppy’s current food to help with the transition home. If a puppy has not been properly weaned onto solid food by this age, this is a serious welfare concern.
You can choose to continue feeding the same food or change to a different puppy food, once your puppy has settled in.
Changing Your Puppy’s Food
If you decide to switch foods, do so very gradually over 7–10 days to avoid digestive upset.
If switching from wet to dry food, you may notice your puppy drinks more water, this is normal. Fresh, clean water should always be available.
Choosing the Right Puppy Food
There are many options available in pet shops, supermarkets and veterinary clinics. Look for a food labelled ‘complete’, as this means it contains all the nutrients your puppy needs and does not require additional supplementation.
It’s important to choose a food suitable for your puppy’s age and expected size when fully grown so: toy, small, medium, large or giant.
Puppies have different nutritional needs to adult dogs. In most cases, they should stay on puppy food until around 12 months of age, or as advised by your vet. Large and giant breeds may need puppy food for longer.
How Often Should I Feed My Puppy?
A consistent feeding routine helps puppies feel secure and helps the toilet training process.
Where Should I Feed My Puppy?
Choose a quiet, low-distraction area where your puppy can eat undisturbed. If you have other pets, feed them separately until everyone is settled and unlikely to steal from one another.
Help! My Puppy Eats Too Quickly
Some puppies eat very fast, which can increase the risk of digestive upset and, in large or giant breeds, a serious condition called bloat. Bloat is life-threatening and requires immediate veterinary attention.
To slow down a fast eater:
- Use a slow-feeder bowl but make sure it’s not frustrating for your dog
- Feed meals in a food-stuffable toy (such as a rubber feeder)
- Try puzzle feeders appropriate for your puppy’s age
Start with simple enrichment toys and progress gradually. If a puzzle is too difficult, your puppy may become frustrated.
Activity Feeding
Using food toys or activity feeders can:
- Slow down mealtimes
- Provide mental stimulation
- Redirect chewing away from furniture
- Encourage calm behaviour
- Motivate picky eaters
Choose feeders suitable for your puppy’s developmental stage. Simple designs are best for beginners.
Preventing Puppy Obesity
Excess weight is a growing problem in dogs. Overweight puppies are more likely to become overweight adults, increasing the risk of:
- Diabetes
- Breathing problems
- Arthritis
- Certain cancers
- Reduced lifespan
Managing portion sizes and providing appropriate exercise for your puppy’s age are key to prevention.
How to Check Your Puppy’s Weight
Many owners do not realise their dog is overweight, but you can assess your puppy’s body condition at home:
Look from Above
Your puppy should have a visible waist, creating a gentle ‘hourglass’ shape behind the ribs.
- Oval shape = overweight
- Extremely narrow waist = underweight
Feel Their Ribs
You should be able to feel the ribs easily under a thin layer of fat.
- Prominent ribs = underweight
- Difficult to feel ribs = overweight
Body Condition Guide
While ideal shape varies between breeds, a general guide is:
- Emaciated – Severely underweight; veterinary guidance needed
- Thin – Underweight; may need dietary adjustment
- Ideal – Healthy body shape and weight
- Overweight – Needs weight management
- Obese – Significantly overweight; at serious health risk
Breed Differences Matter for Weight
Sighthounds are naturally lean, whereas flat-faced breeds (such as bulldogs and pugs) have different body shapes but are at increased risk from obesity, due to breathing challenges.
If you are unsure about your puppy’s weight, your veterinary team can help. Many practices offer weight clinics and nutritional advice.
Summary
Establishing good feeding habits early will support your puppy’s growth, behaviour and long-term health. Provide a complete puppy diet, maintain a consistent routine, monitor body condition regularly and seek veterinary advice if you have concerns.
Healthy feeding today helps lays a solid foundation for a lifetime of wellbeing.
Spring brings longer days, brighter weather and gardens bursting into life. It’s a lovely time to get outdoors with our dogs, but it’s also worth being aware that some common spring plants, both in gardens and in the home, can be harmful if chewed or eaten.
Poisoning is thankfully uncommon, but a little awareness can go a long way, especially for curious dogs who love to dig, nibble or explore with their mouths.
If you ever think your dog has eaten something they shouldn’t, contact your vet straight away. It’s always better to check, even if you’re unsure.
Common Spring Plants That Are Toxic For Dogs
Many spring flowers are popular because they’re colourful and easy to grow, but some contain toxins that can upset your dog’s stomach or, in more serious cases, affect the heart or nervous system.
Daffodils
Daffodils are a familiar sign that spring has arrived, but they can cause problems for dogs. The flowers, leaves and even the water from a vase can be toxic, with the bulbs being the most dangerous part. Dogs that dig are particularly at risk.
Signs of poisoning may include vomiting, diarrhoea, extreme tiredness, wobbliness and, in severe cases, seizures.
Tulips
Tulips can irritate the mouth and stomach if eaten. Most dogs will develop drooling, vomiting or diarrhoea, but more serious symptoms such as breathing difficulties or heart problems can occur if larger amounts are consumed. As with daffodils, the bulbs contain the highest levels of toxins.
Bluebells
Often found in woodland and along country paths, bluebells contain substances that can affect the heart. Mild cases usually cause an upset stomach, but eating large quantities can be very serious. Keep a close eye on your dog during spring walks, particularly in wooded areas.
Rhododendrons & Azaleas
These striking shrubs are among the most dangerous spring plants for dogs. All parts of the plant are toxic, and even a small amount can make a dog very unwell. Puppies and smaller dogs are especially vulnerable. If you suspect your dog has eaten any part of a rhododendron or azalea, please seek veterinary help immediately.
Amaryllis
Often kept as a houseplant as well as grown outdoors, amaryllis is poisonous in all parts. Make sure it’s kept well out of reach of pets indoors and fenced off in the garden if necessary.
Other Spring Plants to Be Aware Of
There are many plants and bulbs that appear in spring which can be harmful to dogs. Some may cause mild stomach upsets, while others are more serious.
Take extra care with:
- Hyacinth bulbs
- Crocus
- Cyclamen (roots)
- Foxglove
- Yew
- Wild cherry (leaves and twigs)
Before planting anything new, it’s always worth checking that it’s pet-safe, particularly if your dog spends time unsupervised in the garden.
Other Springtime Risks to Keep in Mind
Spring isn’t just about plants.
As we spend more time outdoors, there are a few extra precautions can help keep dogs safe:
Gardening: Keep dogs away from wet paint, fertilisers and chemicals, which can be harmful if inhaled or ingested.
Countryside walks: With lambs and calves in fields, please keep dogs on a lead around livestock to prevent injury or distress.
Warmer weather: As temperatures rise, adjust walk times to cooler parts of the day and make sure your dog always has access to fresh water and shade.
Parasite control: Fleas become more active in warmer weather, so keep flea and worm treatments up to date.
Easter treats: Chocolate is highly toxic to dogs – store it securely and contact your vet immediately if any is eaten.
For many dogs, there’s nothing more exciting than spotting a stick on a walk. Chasing it, carrying it proudly, or settling down for a good chew can seem like harmless fun.
Unfortunately, sticks can pose a real risk to dogs, and injuries caused by them are more common, and often more serious, than many people realise.
The good news is that there are much safer ways to keep your dog happy, active and entertained.
Why Sticks Can Be Risky
Sticks vary hugely in size, shape and weight, which makes them unpredictable when thrown. They can bounce, splinter or land at awkward angles, increasing the chance of injury as your dog runs to grab them.
Many sticks also have sharp ends, rough edges, thorns or smaller branches attached. When combined with an excited dog running at speed, this can quickly turn playtime into an emergency.
How Sticks Can Injure Dogs
Whether your dog is fetching or chewing a stick, injuries can range from minor to life-threatening.
These may include:
- Splinters lodged in the mouth or gums
- Choking on broken pieces
- Blockages in the stomach or intestines if swallowed
- Eye injuries
- Cuts or puncture wounds to the face or body
- Infections caused by bacteria on the wood
- Severe internal injuries if a stick penetrates the throat or chest
Veterinary teams regularly treat dogs like Hulk (pictured above) with serious stick-related injuries. In some heartbreaking cases, the damage is so severe that dogs cannot be saved. What looks like a simple game can have devastating consequences.
Why Do Some Dogs Love Sticks so Much?
Sticks are appealing because they engage several of a dog’s senses at once. They smell interesting, have different textures, and can feel satisfying to chew.
However, allowing dogs to chew sticks can quickly become a lifelong habit that’s difficult to break, and one that carries ongoing risks.
Safer Alternatives for Play
If your dog enjoys chasing and carrying objects, there are plenty of safer options to choose from.
For games of fetch:

Sticks may seem natural and harmless, but the risks they carry simply aren’t worth it. By choosing safer toys instead, you can still give your dog all the fun they love while reducing the chance of painful, and potentially life-threatening injuries.
If you’re ever unsure about a toy or worried your dog may have injured themselves, it’s always best to contact your vet for advice.
If your dog is expecting puppies, being prepared for birth (whelping) is one of the most important things you can do to protect her health and that of her pups. Many dogs give birth without complications, but when problems do arise, they can escalate quickly.
If your dog is straining strongly for 20–30 minutes without producing a puppy, or if something doesn’t seem right, contact your vet immediately. Prompt action can be lifesaving.
Unplanned litters are a common reason dogs end up in rescues, and pregnancy carries real health risks. For this reason, neutering is recommended to prevent unwanted pregnancies and related complications.
Pregnancy, Birth and Early Puppy Care
This page focuses on the whelping process itself, but pregnancy and the weeks that follow are just as important. During this time, your dog will need appropriate veterinary care, good nutrition and a calm environment to support both her and her puppies.
Preparing for Whelping
Knowing the Due Date
Dogs are usually pregnant for around 63 days. It’s important to know roughly when your dog is due so you can prepare for the birth and monitor her closely.
Veterinary Support
Register with a vet as soon as you know or suspect your dog is pregnant. Keep both daytime and out-of-hours contact numbers easily accessible in case of emergency.
Setting Up a Whelping Area
A quiet, comfortable space will help your dog feel safe and relaxed when labour begins.
A whelping box can be bought or made at home and should be:
- placed in a quiet, draught-free room kept warm (around 22°C)
- lined with clean, absorbent bedding such as towels
- large enough for your dog to stretch out comfortably
- designed to prevent puppies wandering off or being accidentally trapped
Setting this up well before the due date allows your dog time to get used to it.
General Care
Pregnant dogs often need adjustments to their diet and parasite control. Your vet can guide you on feeding, flea and worm treatments that are safe during pregnancy.
What to Expect During Normal Whelping
Stage One: Preparing for Labour
This stage can last from several hours to more than a day, particularly for first-time mothers.
You may notice:
- restlessness or pacing
- panting
- reduced appetite
- nesting behaviour – digging, circling, pacing
- a small amount of dark or blood-tinged discharge
As labour approaches, your dog should begin to settle in her whelping box.
Stage Two: Giving Birth
Strong contractions and straining begin once your dog is ready to deliver her puppies.
The first puppy often takes the longest to arrive and may take up to two hours or as little as 20 minutes to arrive.
There will be a gap between each puppy, and this can range from 5 minutes up to 1.5 hours.
If your dog has been straining for 20-30 minutes at any point of the birthing process, without progressing or producing a puppy, please contact you vet immediately.
Most puppies are born head-first, but some can arrive into the world tail-first.
Each puppy is born inside a thin sac, which their mother usually removes so they can breathe.
After each puppy is born, your dog should pass a placenta (afterbirth), which they often eat. If your dog has a large litter of puppies, it’s best to prevent her eating too many of the placentas as this can cause vomiting and diarrhoea. Most dogs pass a placenta about 15 minutes after each puppy but sometimes, a few puppies can be born before their placentas are passed. It’s very important to ensure every placenta is passed as your dog could develop an infection (metritis) otherwise.
Your dog should be comfortable ad interacting with her newborn pups between each birth.
Some fluid and light bleeding is expected, but heavy bleeding or thick green discharge without a puppy is not normal and needs urgent veterinary advice.
Although it’s natural to want to help, most dogs should be left to give birth without interference. If you are worried at any point, contact your vet rather than attempting to intervene.
Stage Three: After Labour
Most dogs give birth to their full litter within 3–12 hours. Once labour is complete, your dog should eat and rest, then feed her puppies and bond with them in a quiet, undisturbed space.
When Problems Occur During Birth
Most dogs give birth without needing help, but difficulties can sometimes arise. Vets refer to this as dystocia, meaning trouble giving birth. Certain dogs, particularly flat-faced breeds such as French Bulldogs, Pugs and Bulldogs, are at higher risk, but whelping issues can affect any dog.
Trust your instincts. If your dog seems unwell, distressed, or not herself at any point before, during or after labour, it’s always safest to contact your vet for advice.
Straining With No Puppy
If your dog is having strong contractions and straining for 20–30 minutes without producing a puppy, this is an emergency. Ongoing straining without progress can quickly become life-threatening for both mother and pups, so please contact your vet immediately.
Green Discharge or Heavy Bleeding
A small amount of fluid or light blood during labour can be normal. However, a thick green discharge without a puppy being born may indicate a puppy is in distress.
More than a few drops of blood is not normal and needs urgent veterinary attention.
Exhaustion During Labour
Long or difficult labours can leave a dog extremely tired, especially if she is older or carrying a large litter. If she becomes exhausted, stops straining, or seems unable to continue, she may need veterinary support.
A Puppy Becoming Stuck
Large puppies, awkward positioning, or abnormalities can sometimes cause a puppy to become lodged in the birth canal. If you can see a puppy that is not progressing, do not pull unless specifically instructed by your vet, as this can cause serious injury. Please call your vet straight away.
Difficulties With the Birth Sac
Puppies are born inside a thin membrane which the mother usually removes immediately. Some dogs, particularly first-time mums, may take longer, or may not do this at all.
If a puppy is born and the sac hasn’t been removed quickly, you may need to help so the puppy can breathe. Gently tear a hole in the sac using your fingers and free the puppy’s head. Avoid using scissors. If you are unsure or struggling at any stage, contact your vet immediately.
Umbilical Cord Problems
Most mothers chew through the umbilical cord shortly after birth. While cords don’t need to be removed straight away, those left attached for several hours can become infected. Occasionally, cords may bleed if chewed too enthusiastically.
If a cord is still attached several hours after birth, or if bleeding continues, speak to your vet for advice. Tying and cutting a cord must be done carefully and hygienically but doing this incorrectly can cause infection or injury to the puppy.
No Signs of Labour
If your dog’s pregnancy has been confirmed but she has not shown any signs of labour a few days after her expected due date, contact your vet as delayed labour can be dangerous.
Stillborn Puppies
Sadly, stillbirths do sometimes occur. If your dog gives birth to any puppies that are not alive, she should be examined by a vet as soon as possible to ensure there are no complications and that the remaining puppies are safe.
Weak or Fading Puppies
Newborn puppies are very fragile.
Contact your vet immediately if any puppy:
- is not breathing or stops breathing
- is weak, unresponsive or unable to move
- cannot feed or stops suckling
- shows signs of illness or fading
Early veterinary care can be lifesaving for young puppies.
Veterinary Treatment for Difficult Births
If your dog is struggling to give birth, your vet may recommend monitoring, imaging such as scans or X-rays, medication to stimulate contractions, assisted delivery, or a caesarean section. The safest option depends entirely on the situation and must be assessed by a vet.
Problems After Whelping
Mammary (Milk) Problems
Check your dog’s mammary glands daily.
Contact your vet if you notice:
- pain or swelling
- redness or heat
- lack of milk
- discoloured or unusual milk
These can be signs of mastitis, a painful infection that needs prompt veterinary treatment.
Metritis (Womb Infection)
This is rare but serious. Signs include lethargy, poor appetite, fever, foul-smelling discharge and reduced milk production. Seek veterinary advice immediately if these occur.
Please note, a small, non-smelly discharge for several weeks after birth is normal.
Eclampsia (Low Calcium)
Eclampsia is a life-threatening condition caused by low calcium levels, most often seen in small dogs with large litters. Symptoms include stiffness, trembling, weakness, behavioural changes and seizures. This is an emergency so you will need to contact your vet immediately.
Mothering Difficulties
Some dogs, especially after stressful births or caesareans, may struggle to bond and care for their puppies. Providing a calm, private environment and avoiding unnecessary interference can help. If you’re concerned about your dog’s behaviour, seek prompt veterinary advice early.
Should My Dog Have Puppies?
Female dogs do not need to have a litter to live a happy or healthy life. Pregnancy and birth place significant strain on the body and can carry serious risks. With so many dogs already in need of homes, preventing unplanned litters through neutering is the kindest option for most dogs.
Many people inadvertently buy dogs from unscrupulous breeders because they’re not sure what to look out for.
Before buying a puppy, look out for these warning signs:
🚩 Ad is Missing Information
Under Irish regulations, puppy/dog adverts must include key information.
- Microchip details (of every puppy advertised)
- The puppy’s or dog’s age and date of birth
- The country the dog or puppy was born in
- The seller’s DBE registration (> 5 female dogs capable of breeding) or seller number (selling/giving away > 6 pets in a calendar year)
If any of the above is missing, please do not engage with the seller.
🚩 You’re Asked to Meet Somewhere Unusual
Responsible breeders will allow you to visit the place where the puppies were raised.
Be cautious if the seller:
- Asks to meet in a car park
- Offers to deliver the puppy to your home
- Suggests meeting halfway somewhere
This may be an attempt to hide where the puppy was bred.
🚩 You Cannot See the Puppy With Their Mother
A puppy should always be seen with its mother and littermates in the environment where they were raised.
If the seller says any of the following, no matter how difficult, please walk away:
- The mother is ‘at the vet’
- The mother ‘belongs to someone else’
- The puppy was ‘bred elsewhere’
🚩 The Seller Has Lots of Puppies Available
Responsible breeders usually have one litter at a time and focus on careful socialisation.
Be wary if a seller:
- Has several litters available
- Advertises many breeds at once
- Always seems to have puppies ready to go
🚩 You Feel Pressured to Decide Quickly
Buying a puppy should never feel rushed.
Warning signs include:
- ‘There’s another buyer coming later today’
- ‘You need to leave a deposit immediately’
- ‘The puppy must go today’
Good breeders want the right home, not the fastest sale.
🚩 Paperwork is Missing or Incomplete
A supplier/seller should provide:
- Microchip certificate (legal requirement)
- Proof of vaccination and history of veterinary examination (including flea/worm treatment)
- Veterinary history of both parents
Good breeders are proud of the dogs they produce so a reluctance to share veterinary history is a huge red flag! Do not accept ‘I’ll post it to you.’
If something feels wrong please, please walk away. It will be tough if you have already laid eyes on the puppy but not as tough as taking home a sick or poorly bred puppy who may have lifelong veterinary or behaviour issues.
Choosing not to buy a puppy in these circumstances helps protect dogs from poor breeding conditions.
While your dog may be comfortable with the people they live with, visitors can be unfamiliar and unpredictable from a dog’s perspective. This can be especially true when children are visiting the home.
Whether you are hosting a child’s playdate, welcoming grandchildren, or having friends and family over for a celebration, a little preparation can help ensure everyone stays safe and relaxed.
Dogs do not automatically understand how humans expect them to behave around babies and children. Training, preparation and careful management are therefore essential. By understanding canine behaviour and planning interactions carefully, you can help create a safe and positive experience for both children and dogs.
Preparing Your Dog and Home for Visiting Children
The first interactions between your dog and visiting children can influence how future visits go, so it helps to plan ahead.
Before visitors arrive:
- take your dog for a walk so they are more relaxed
- prepare a quiet resting area where your dog can retreat
- remove toys or food items that could cause competition or excitement
When the child arrives, allow both the dog and child time to settle before introducing them.
Active Supervision
Children and dogs should never be left alone together.
Active supervision means an adult is always paying close attention to both the child and the dog. If you need to leave the room, even briefly, it is safest to separate them.
Children can be unpredictable from a dog’s perspective. Loud voices, sudden movements, running, or emotional outbursts can be exciting or frightening for dogs.
Encourage children to interact gently with your dog, and step in early if play becomes too energetic.
Many dogs tolerate uncomfortable situations for some time before showing clear warning signals. For this reason, it is important not to rely on a dog’s patience and to manage interactions carefully.
Safe Interaction Tips
When children and dogs are together:
- Always supervise closely.
- Encourage calm and gentle stroking only.
- Avoid grabbing, pulling, or sitting on the dog.
- Allow the dog to choose whether they want to approach the child.
One simple approach is to call the dog over rather than approaching them. If the dog chooses to come over calmly, they may be comfortable interacting. If they stay where they are, it is best to leave them alone.
Other helpful tips include:
- Keep dogs away from children while they are eating or chewing.
- Be mindful when children are playing with toys, as dogs may become excited or confused about which toys belong to them.
- If your dog becomes worried or overstimulated, calmly remove them from the situation.
- If a child becomes frightened of the dog, separate them immediately to prevent negative experiences.
Dogs and children do not need to interact constantly. Sometimes allowing the dog to observe quietly from a comfortable distance is the best approach.
Separation
Providing your dog with regular breaks away from children is an important part of managing interactions safely. Separation should always be seen as a positive measure rather than a punishment.
Tools that can help include:
- baby gates
- dog crates (when introduced positively)
- separate rooms or quiet areas
Dogs benefit from having a safe space where they can rest undisturbed.
Puppies and young dogs especially need a lot of sleep. Being repeatedly woken or startled may make them irritable and less tolerant.
Providing enrichment, such as a food-stuffed toy or chew, can help your dog relax during quiet time.
Understanding Dog Body Language
Many people believe dog bites occur without warning, but dogs usually show signs of discomfort before reacting.
Common signs that a dog may be feeling worried include:
- moving away or hiding
- lowering their body or tucking their tail
- looking away or avoiding eye contact
- lip licking or repeated yawning when not tired
- lifting a paw
- growling or showing teeth
If you see these signs, it is important to calmly remove the dog from the situation and allow them space to relax.
Recognising these signals early can help prevent situations escalating.
Are Some Breeds Safer with Children?
No breed of dog is guaranteed to be completely safe around children.
Dogs vary widely in temperament, personality and past experiences. While breed tendencies may influence behaviour, they do not determine how an individual dog will act.
All dogs have the ability to bite if they feel frightened, stressed or threatened.
Larger dogs may cause more serious injury due to their size, but bites from small dogs can also cause significant harm.
The most important factor in preventing incidents is careful supervision and responsible management of interactions.
Health and Hygiene
Good hygiene practices help protect both children and dogs.
- Always pick up dog waste promptly.
- Ensure dogs receive regular worming treatments as recommended by your veterinary practice.
- Encourage children to wash their hands after touching a dog and before eating.
Young children are more likely to put their hands in their mouths, which increases the risk of infections such as toxocariasis, a disease caused by roundworm eggs found in contaminated soil or faeces.
If someone is bitten by a dog, medical advice should be sought promptly.
Dogs and the Law in Ireland
Dog owners in Ireland are legally responsible for keeping their dogs under control. Under Irish law, it is an offence to allow a dog to be out of control, whether in a public place or on private property. This includes incidents that occur in the home or garden. If a dog injures someone, the owner may face legal consequences.
These responsibilities apply to all dogs, regardless of their breed. Beyond legal consequences, dog bite incidents can have serious emotional and physical impacts on everyone involved. Responsible management of dogs around children is therefore essential.
Helping Dogs and Children Build Positive Relationships
When interactions are calm and well managed, dogs and children can develop wonderful relationships.
Children often copy adult behaviour, so modelling calm, gentle interactions with your dog will help them learn how to behave safely.
With patience, supervision and clear boundaries, visits involving children and dogs can become enjoyable and rewarding experiences for everyone involved.
We all love having our dogs close, but if you smoke, it’s important to remember that second-hand smoke can be harmful to them.
Dogs often sit on sofas, carpets, or even curl up at our feet, the places where toxic smoke particles settle. This means they breathe in more smoke than we might realise, and over time, it can affect their health.
How Smoke Affects Dogs
Exposure to tobacco smoke can increase the risk of serious health problems in dogs, including nasal (nose) and lung cancers.
Dogs are particularly at risk because they spend so much time in the home, close to carpets, furniture, and their owners, where smoke particles accumulate.
Signs Your Dog Might Be Affected
Keep an eye out for changes in your dog’s health or behaviour that could indicate smoke-related problems:
- Persistent coughing or wheezing
- Difficulty breathing
- Unusual or severe nasal discharge
- Fatigue or low energy
If you notice any of these signs, contact your vet promptly.
What About Vaping?
E-cigarettes and vapes may seem safer, but most contain nicotine, which is highly toxic to dogs. Even a small amount of e-liquid can cause serious poisoning, and curious dogs may chew on cartridges or devices.
To keep your dog safe:
- Vape outside, away from your dog
- Never leave e-cigarettes or cartridges within reach
- Dispose of empty cartridges carefully
- Ventilate any room thoroughly before letting your dog back in
If you suspect your dog has ingested any e-liquid or part of a vape, contact your vet immediately – this is an emergency.
Skin cancer happens when cells in the skin begin to grow in an uncontrolled way, forming a lump, sore or change on the skin. Some skin cancers grow slowly and stay local, while others can spread more quickly if left untreated.
Checking your dog’s skin regularly is one of the simplest and most effective ways to spot problems early. Many lumps and bumps are harmless, but if a growth does turn out to be cancerous, finding it early can make a big difference to your dog’s outcome.
Common Types of Skin Cancer in Dogs
There are several types of skin cancer seen in dogs. Each behaves a little differently, which is why veterinary assessment is so important.
Mast Cell Tumours
These are the most common skin tumours in dogs. They develop from mast cells, which play a role in the immune system. Mast cell tumours can appear almost anywhere on the body and may change in size over time, sometimes growing very quickly.
Some breeds are more prone, including bulldogs, Boston terriers, pugs, Staffordshire bull terriers and retrievers. Mast cell tumours range from slow-growing and mild to more aggressive forms.
Melanomas
Melanomas develop from pigment-producing cells. On the skin, they often appear dark brown or black and, in dogs, many skin melanomas are benign (non-cancerous).
However, melanomas found in the mouth, under the nailbed or around the lips and anus are more likely to be malignant and can spread. Unlike in people, sunlight is not thought to be the main trigger in dogs, and genetics may play a role.
Squamous Cell Carcinoma
This type of skin cancer is sometimes linked to sun exposure, particularly in dogs with light skin, thin coats or areas with little fur. Squamous cell carcinoma can be tricky to spot early, as it may look like a small patch of red, sore or scabby skin at first.
Over time, it may form a firm or ulcerated lump and can spread into surrounding tissue, making early treatment especially important.
Soft Tissue Sarcomas
These tumours arise from connective tissues and can vary in how aggressive they are. They are often round, fleshy lumps that may feel soft or firm and are commonly found on the legs, chest or head. They tend to occur more often in older dogs, particularly medium and large breeds.
What Does Skin Cancer Look Like on Dogs?
Skin cancer doesn’t have one single appearance.
Changes to look out for include:
- Lumps or bumps under or on the skin
- Warty or raised growths
- Sores or scabs that don’t heal
- Areas of thickened, red or irritated skin
These changes can be black, brown, grey, pink or red. Any new lump, or an existing one that changes in size, shape or colour, should be checked by your vet.
What Causes Skin Cancer in Dogs?
Not all skin cancers are linked to sun exposure, but sunlight can increase the risk of squamous cell carcinoma, particularly in dogs with pale skin or sparse fur. Sunburn at any point in a dog’s life may increase this risk.
Genetics also appear to play a role, with certain breeds being more susceptible to specific tumour types.
What Does Sunburn Look Like in Dogs?
Sunburn in dogs may cause:
- Red or inflamed skin
- Hair loss
- Sensitivity or soreness when touched
Commonly affected areas include the nose, ear tips, belly, inner thighs, lips and any areas with little pigmentation or fur.
Protecting your dog from sun damage
Reducing sun exposure is the best way to protect your dog from sunburn and sun-related skin cancers. Keeping dogs indoors or in the shade during peak UV hours (usually between 10am and 3pm) can help.
For dogs at higher risk, a pet-safe sunscreen can be useful. Always choose a product made specifically for dogs and follow the instructions carefully.
How is Skin Cancer Diagnosed?
If your vet is concerned about a lump or skin change, they may take a small sample of cells using a fine needle or recommend a biopsy. These samples are examined under a microscope to determine whether the growth is cancerous.
In some cases, a surgical biopsy may be needed to reach a clear diagnosis. Your vet will talk you through the options and what’s best for your dog.
Treatment Options
Many skin cancers can be treated successfully, particularly when caught early. Surgery to remove the lump is often the main treatment and can be curative in many cases.
Depending on the type and stage of cancer, radiotherapy or chemotherapy may also be considered. These treatments aren’t suitable for every dog, especially older pets or those with other health concerns, so decisions are always made with your dog’s comfort and quality of life in mind.
What is The Outlook For Dogs With Skin Cancer?
The outlook varies depending on the type of skin cancer and how early it’s diagnosed. Thankfully, many dogs go on to make a full recovery and enjoy a normal, happy life after treatment.
If you ever notice a new lump, sore or skin change on your dog, don’t ignore it. Your vet is there to help, and early advice can make all the difference.
Canine cough, also known as kennel cough, is a common respiratory infection in dogs that causes a distinctive, harsh cough. While it can sound alarming, most dogs recover well with rest and basic care. However, some dogs are more vulnerable to complications, so it’s important to know when to seek veterinary advice and how to reduce the risk of spread.
Vaccination is the most effective way to reduce the risk of kennel cough, particularly for dogs that mix regularly with others.
Other Possible Signs
Most dogs with kennel cough remain bright, alert and interested in food. In mild cases, coughing may be the only sign.
Some dogs may also develop a runny nose, sneezing or mild eye discharge.
More vulnerable dogs, such as puppies, older dogs, or those with existing health problems, may show more concerning signs, including:
- Reduced appetite
- Lethargy
- Fever
Is Kennel Cough Serious?
In healthy adult dogs, kennel cough is usually mild and self-limiting, meaning it clears on its own within a few weeks. However, in higher-risk dogs, the infection can occasionally progress to more serious conditions such as pneumonia.
If your dog seems unwell, stops eating, or their cough worsens rather than improves, please contact your vet.
How Do Dogs Catch Kennel Cough?
Kennel cough is highly contagious and spreads easily via:
- Through the air when infected dogs cough or bark
- By direct contact with other dogs
- Via contaminated objects such as bowls, leads, toys or bedding
The incubation period (time between exposure and symptoms) is usually two to fourteen days, with some dogs being asymptomatic (showing no signs).
Diagnosing Kennel Cough
While there is no single test for kennel cough. Vets usually diagnose it based on your dog’s symptoms and recent contact with other dogs.
In more severe or complicated cases, further tests such as swabs or X-rays may be recommended.
If your dog is coughing and needs to visit a veterinary clinic, it’s important to let the practice know in advance, so steps can be taken to reduce the risk of spreading infection to other dogs.
Preventing the Spread of Kennel Cough
Dogs with kennel cough should be kept away from other dogs and public spaces while they are coughing and for two to three weeks after symptoms resolve, as they can remain contagious.
Vaccination against kennel cough
Vaccination is the most effective way to reduce the risk of kennel cough, particularly for dogs that mix regularly with others.
The kennel cough vaccine usually lasts around 12 months. While it does not guarantee full protection, it can significantly reduce the severity and duration of illness.
It’s important to note that many training class providers, boarding kennels and day care facilities usually require proof of vaccination against kennel cough.
The vaccine can be given as part of your dog’s routine healthcare plan, please speak to your vet about whether it’s appropriate for your dog’s lifestyle.
When to Contact Your Vet
Contact your vet for advice if:
- Your dog has been coughing for several days
- The cough is severe or worsening
- Your dog seems unwell, lethargic or stops eating
- Your dog is very young, elderly, or has an underlying health condition
Early advice can help prevent complications and ensure your dog recovers as smoothly as possible.
Kennel cough is usually more unpleasant than dangerous, but understanding how it spreads and how to manage it helps protect both your dog and others in the community.
Skin allergies occur when a dog’s immune system overreacts to substances in their environment or diet. Common triggers include pollen, grass, house dust mites, fleas and certain foods. Allergic skin disease, also known as atopic dermatitis, is one of the most frequent causes of persistent itching in dogs.
If your dog is scratching, licking or developing repeated skin or ear problems, book a veterinary appointment as early treatment can greatly improve their comfort and quality of life.
Signs of Skin Allergies
Symptoms can vary between dogs but commonly include:
- Persistent itching, either localised or all over
- Red, inflamed or sore skin
- Thinning hair or bald patches
- Recurrent ear infections
- Excessive licking or chewing, often leading to saliva staining
- Thickened or darkened skin over time
- Weepy eyes
- Hot spots, also known as acute moist dermatitis
Some dogs with food allergies may also develop digestive signs such as vomiting, diarrhoea, weight loss or reduced appetite.
Severe Allergic Reactions
In rare cases, dogs can experience a serious allergic reaction known as anaphylaxis.
Warning signs include: severe vomiting or diarrhoea, facial swelling, breathing difficulties and collapse.
Anaphylaxis is an emergency, so you need to contact your vet immediately if you suspect this type of reaction.
Diagnosis and Allergy Testing
Identifying the exact cause of an allergy can be challenging. Your vet will usually begin by ruling out common and controllable causes.
Flea Allergy
Flea allergy can cause intense itching, particularly around the tail base, lower back and thighs. Even a single flea bite can trigger a major reaction in sensitive dogs, so strict year-round flea prevention for all pets in the household is essential.
Food Allergy
If a food allergy is suspected, your vet may recommend a strict elimination diet for 8 to 12 weeks. During this period, your dog must only eat the prescribed diet, with no treats, or extras. Improvement during the trial can confirm a dietary trigger.
Environmental Allergies
Blood or skin testing may help identify environmental allergens such as pollens or dust mites. However, these tests are not always completely reliable and are often used to guide treatment rather than make a definitive diagnosis.
Treatment Options
There is no single solution that works for every dog, so treatment plans are tailored to the individual and often involve a combination of approaches. Skin allergies cannot be cured, we can only treat the symptoms.
Avoiding Triggers
Where possible:
- Maintain strict flea control for all pets
- Vacuum and dust regularly
- Avoid high pollen times or rinse your dog after grassy walks
- Limit exposure to sprays, aerosols and strong scents
- Feed a vet recommended diet for sensitive skin if advised
Anti Itch Medication
Veterinary prescribed medications can significantly reduce itching and inflammation. Options may include steroid treatments, targeted injections or tablets designed to control allergic responses. Your vet will recommend the most suitable option, based on your dog’s needs and medical history.
Shampoos, Supplements and Antihistamines
Skin supportive treatments such as medicated shampoos, omega fatty acid supplements and antihistamines can help manage symptoms. These are usually most effective when combined with other treatments.
Immunotherapy
In some cases, allergy desensitisation therapy may be an option. This involves giving small, controlled amounts of the allergen over time to reduce sensitivity. Treatment often continues for months or years and is not effective for every dog.
Managing Infections
Allergic skin is prone to secondary bacterial or yeast infections. Antibiotics or antifungal treatments may be required, along with regular ear cleaning for dogs that suffer repeated ear problems.
Important Advice
If your dog is itching, simply preventing them from scratching, for example by using a protective collar, will not solve the problem. The underlying cause must be addressed to relieve discomfort properly.
Outlook
With the right management plan, most dogs with allergies can live happy, comfortable lives. Flare ups may still occur, but these can usually be controlled with prompt veterinary care.
When to Contact Your Vet
Seek veterinary advice if:
- Your dog is persistently itchy
- Skin is red, sore or infected
- Ear infections keep returning
- Digestive signs accompany skin symptoms
- Existing treatment no longer seems effective
Skin disease can worsen if left untreated and may have a significant impact on wellbeing.
Cost Considerations
Allergic skin disease is often a lifelong condition, and treatment costs can accumulate over time.
If you’re able to, consider pet insurance while your dog is young and healthy to help with unexpected illness or injury. If your dog becomes unwell, talk openly with your vet about the options, the likely costs, and what feels manageable for you. Together, you can tailor a plan that’s right for your dog and your situation.
If you are concerned about your dog’s skin, contact your local veterinary practice for advice and assessment.
Jumping up is a very common behaviour in dogs and many dogs jump up when they are excited, particularly when greeting people. In other cases, jumping can happen when a dog feels uncertain or overstimulated and is trying to get attention or reassurance.
Dogs quickly learn which behaviours get a response from people. If a dog receives attention when they jump up, even if that attention is telling them off, they may repeat the behaviour because it works.
Jumping is often encouraged unintentionally when dogs are young. When puppies are small, people may greet them enthusiastically while they jump up but as the dog grows larger, the same behaviour can become inconvenient or unsafe, especially around children or older adults.
The good news is that jumping can be changed with consistent training.
Do Not Reward Jumping
If your dog jumps up, the most important thing is not to react.
Avoid talking to them, pushing them away, or making eye contact. Any attention can reinforce the behaviour. Instead, stay calm and wait until your dog returns all four paws to the ground.
As soon as they are standing calmly, reward them with quiet praise or a treat. This helps them learn that calm behaviour gets attention, not jumping.
Reward Calm Greetings
Your dog needs to learn that keeping their paws on the ground is the best way to get your attention.
Think about situations where your dog usually jumps up, such as:
- when you arrive home
- when visitors enter the house
- when meeting people on walks
Being prepared can help prevent the behaviour before it starts. For example, when arriving home you could crouch down to greet your dog calmly or offer a toy or treat immediately to keep their attention focused on the ground.
Rewarding calm behaviour in these moments will help your dog learn what you want them to do instead.
Avoid Telling Your Dog Off
Telling a dog off for jumping can sometimes make the behaviour worse.
For some dogs, being spoken to or touched, even negatively, can still be rewarding because they are receiving attention. For others, being scolded may create confusion or anxiety, which can increase excitable behaviour.
Remaining calm and simply removing attention is usually far more effective.
Be Consistent
When training a dog not to jump up, consistency is essential.
If jumping occasionally gets attention, your dog may continue trying the behaviour because it sometimes works.
Make sure everyone in the household follows the same approach. It can also help to explain the rules to visitors before they greet your dog, so they do not accidentally reinforce jumping.
Using Treat Scattering for Excitable Dogs
Some dogs find sitting calmly very difficult when they are excited.
For these dogs, scattering a few treats on the ground can help. Sniffing for food encourages the dog to keep their nose down and paws on the floor, making jumping much less likely.
You can practise this by asking a friend to approach while you scatter a small handful of treats for your dog to find. This redirects their energy into a calm activity while people greet each other.
Preparing for Walks and Visitors
If your dog tends to jump up when meeting people outside the home, bring treats with you on walks. This allows you to reward calm behaviour whenever someone approaches.
You can also practise polite greetings before visitors arrive by having treats ready and guiding your dog into calm behaviour when the door opens.
With patience, consistency and positive training, most dogs quickly learn that calm greetings are far more rewarding than jumping up.
Dogs are social animals and most prefer to be close to the people they are bonded with. For some dogs, being left alone, or separated from a particular person, can be distressing. This is often referred to as separation anxiety, though vets now commonly use the broader term separation-related behaviours. This recognises that dogs may experience a range of emotions when left, including fear, panic, frustration, boredom or over-excitement, rather than anxiety alone.
Separation-related behaviours are very common and can have a significant impact on both a dog’s wellbeing and their family’s quality of life. The good news is that, with the right support, many dogs can learn to cope better with being alone. Improvement usually involves behavioural guidance, practical changes at home and, in some cases, medication prescribed by a vet.
What Are Separation-Related Behaviours?
A separation-related issue occurs when a dog struggles to cope with being on their own or away from a specific person. The distress usually begins shortly after their caregiver leaves and often eases when they return. As many dogs appear settled again once reunited, these problems can sometimes go unnoticed, unless someone hears or sees what happens while the dog is alone.
Common Signs to Watch For
Dogs show separation-related distress in different ways. Some signs are obvious, while others can be subtle. You may notice one or more of the following when your dog is left alone:
- barking, whining or howling
- pacing, panting or trembling
- drooling excessively
- toileting indoors despite being house-trained
- vomiting or diarrhoea
- destructive behaviour such as chewing doors, furniture or carpets
- repetitive licking, nibbling or biting at their body
- low mood or lack of energy
If you’re unsure what your dog does when alone, a pet camera or feedback from neighbours can be very helpful. Video footage is particularly valuable for vets and behaviour professionals when assessing the problem.
When to Contact Your Vet
If you think your dog may have separation-related issues, or if there is a sudden change in their behaviour, it’s important to speak to your vet. Your vet can rule out medical causes, offer advice and, where appropriate, refer you to a qualified behaviour professional.
Helping a Dog with Separation-Related Problems
Why Treats Alone Are Rarely Enough
It’s a common belief that leaving toys or chews will solve the problem. While this may help dogs who are simply bored, dogs that are truly distressed often won’t eat or play once their person has gone.
A Tailored, Step-by-Step Approach
Most dogs benefit from working with a qualified behaviourist, ideally one registered with a recognised professional body.
Support usually involves:
- Careful assessment – understanding exactly how and when your dog struggles, often using video recordings
- Behavioural therapy – gradually teaching your dog that being alone is safe through carefully planned, positive training
- Changes at home – creating a comfortable, secure space and providing appropriate activities
- Predictable routines – helping your dog know what to expect before, during and after you leave
- Medication – in some cases, vets may prescribe medication alongside training to reduce distress
Progress takes time and commitment, but many dogs do improve with the right help.
Why Punishment Makes Things Worse
Dogs don’t misbehave out of spite. If you come home to damage or mess, it’s the result of distress, not bad behaviour. Telling a dog off after the event won’t help, they won’t connect the punishment with what happened earlier, and it may make them more anxious about both being left and your return. This can worsen the problem rather than solve it.
Preventing Separation Problems
Teaching Independence Early
Helping puppies and newly adopted dogs learn that short periods alone are normal can reduce the risk of problems developing later. Start gently and build up slowly.
Helpful early steps include:
- briefly moving away while your dog remains calm
- leaving them in another room for a few seconds, then gradually longer
- keeping departures and returns low-key and predictable
- providing a safe, comfortable resting area
- encouraging calm, independent behaviour during the day
Dogs should not be left alone for long periods. As a general guide, most adult dogs shouldn’t be left for more than four hours at a time, though this varies on the individual dog.
Helping Your Dog Learn to Be Alone
When teaching your dog to cope with time alone, gradual progress is key. Using baby gates rather than closed doors can help create gentle distance while your dog still feels connected. Providing a comfortable bed, access to water, a quiet environment and familiar scents can all help your dog feel more secure.
If your dog becomes worried at any stage, take a step back and return to the point where they were relaxed. Some dogs progress quickly, while others need much more time, both are normal.
Getting the Right Support
If your dog already finds being alone very difficult, professional guidance is strongly recommended. Every dog is different, and a personalised plan is far more effective than a one-size-fits-all approach. Your vet can help you access appropriate behavioural support.
Seeing your dog have a seizure can be frightening, especially if it happens for the first time. While seizures are not uncommon in dogs, they should always be taken seriously and checked by a vet. The reassuring news is that many dogs will only ever experience a single seizure, and even those with ongoing conditions like epilepsy can often live long, happy lives with the right care.
What is a seizure?
A seizure happens when there is sudden, abnormal electrical activity in the brain. This can lead to involuntary movements, changes in behaviour, or a loss of awareness. Some seizures affect the whole body, while others are milder and only involve one area.
If a dog has repeated seizures, this may be diagnosed as epilepsy. In many cases, especially in younger dogs, there is no obvious cause. This type is known as idiopathic epilepsy and is often linked to genetics. Epilepsy usually begins between one and five years of age.
What Does a Seizure Look Like?
Most dogs experience what’s called a generalised seizure, which can be very dramatic to watch.
During a seizure, your dog may:
- Collapse and lose consciousness
- Paddle or jerk their legs
- Become stiff or rigid
- Foam or drool at the mouth
- Lose control of their bladder or bowels
Some dogs have milder seizures that only cause twitching in the face or a limb. Very rarely, dogs may have brief ‘absence’ episodes where they seem vacant, stare into space, and stop responding.
Seizures usually last between one and three minutes. Although it’s upsetting, if you can safely record the episode on your phone, it can be extremely helpful for your vet when making a diagnosis.
What Happens After a Seizure?
Dogs often behave differently once a seizure has passed. Some recover quickly and seem back to normal within minutes. Others may appear confused, restless, clingy or disorientated for several hours. This recovery phase is called the post-ictal period and usually settles on its own.
What Should I Do if My Dog Has a Seizure?
The most important thing is to stay calm. Your dog is unconscious during a seizure and is not in pain.
Make sure they are safe by gently clearing the area around them and blocking access to hazards such as stairs. Try not to move them unless absolutely necessary. Never put your hand near or inside their mouth, dogs cannot swallow their tongues, and you could be bitten unintentionally.
Once the seizure stops, contact your vet for advice. If the seizure lasts longer than two minutes, or your dog has more than one seizure close together, you should call your vet immediately.
How Will My Vet Investigate?
If your dog has had a single, short seizure and seems otherwise well, your vet may recommend monitoring them at home. Many dogs will never have another episode.
If seizures recur, last longer than five minutes, or your dog is very young or older, further tests may be needed. These can include blood and urine tests, and sometimes referral for specialist imaging such as a brain scan. Videos and a clear history are incredibly useful in guiding these decisions.
How Are Seizures Treated?
Not every dog who has a seizure will need medication. Treatment is usually recommended if seizures are frequent, severe, or affecting your dog’s quality of life.
Treatment options may include addressing an underlying cause, starting anti-epileptic medication, adjusting diet, or avoiding known triggers. Anti-epileptic drugs aim to reduce how often seizures happen and how severe they are. Some dogs stop having seizures altogether, while others may still have occasional episodes.
Once started, epilepsy medication is usually lifelong and needs to be given consistently. Regular check-ups and blood tests help ensure the treatment remains safe and effective.
Living With an Epileptic Dog
Epilepsy can feel daunting at first, but many dogs do very well once their medication is stabilised. Most continue to enjoy walks, playtime and family life just like any other dog.
Keeping a simple seizure diary can be very helpful. Note when seizures happen, how long they last, and what your dog was like afterwards. Over time, you may also notice subtle warning signs that a seizure is coming.
Some medications can cause side effects such as increased appetite or weight gain, so maintaining a healthy diet and body condition is important.
When is a Seizure an Emergency?
A seizure that lasts longer than five minutes is known as status epilepticus and is a medical emergency. Prolonged seizures can cause serious damage to the brain and other organs.
If your dog has been seizing for more than two minutes, call your vet straight away. Emergency treatment may be needed to stop the seizure and stabilise your dog.
Despite the name, ringworm isn’t a worm at all. It’s a fungal skin infection, like athlete’s foot in people.
Ringworm can spread between animals and people, so early diagnosis and treatment are important to protect both your dog and your household.
What Causes Ringworm?
Ringworm is caused by a fungus that produces tiny spores. These spores are very hardy and can survive in the environment for a long time. Infection usually happens through direct contact with an infected animal or contaminated objects such as bedding, grooming brushes or carpets.
Healthy, intact skin is quite good at protecting against infection, so dogs are more likely to develop ringworm if their skin is damaged or if their immune system is weakened. Puppies, older dogs and long-haired breeds tend to be more at risk.
What Does Ringworm Look Like in Dogs?
Ringworm doesn’t always appear as a neat ring, and it can look different from one dog to the next.
Common signs include:
- Patches of hair loss (alopecia)
- Red, crusty or scaly skin
- Broken or thinning hair
- Mild itchiness or dandruff
These patches are often seen on the head, ears, legs and paws, but they can develop anywhere on the body.
When To Contact Your Vet
If you notice hair loss, scaly skin or sores that aren’t healing, it’s best to contact your vet for advice. While ringworm is relatively rare, it needs treatment to clear the infection and reduce the risk of spread to other pets or people.
How is Ringworm Diagnosed?
Your vet may use a special ultraviolet lamp to examine your dog’s skin and coat, as some types of ringworm glow under this light. They may also take hair or skin samples to examine under a microscope or send away for laboratory testing. Lab tests are the most reliable, but they can take around 10 days for results.
Can People Get Ringworm From Dogs?
Yes, ringworm can spread from dogs to people through direct contact. Infection in people is usually mild and appears as a red, circular patch on the skin, but it can be more serious in young children, older adults or anyone with a weakened immune system.
You’re more likely to catch ringworm if you have broken skin, such as a scratch or eczema. If you think you may have ringworm, contact your GP or pharmacist for advice.
To reduce the risk:
- Wear gloves when treating your dog
- Wash your hands thoroughly after handling them
- Avoid close contact between infected dogs and young children
Outlook
With prompt treatment and good hygiene, most dogs make a full recovery from ringworm. It can be persistent, so keep an eye out for returning signs and attend any follow-up checks your vet recommends.
Costs
Treating ringworm can sometimes be costly due to the length of treatment and the need for repeat checks.
If you’re able to, consider pet insurance while your dog is young and healthy to help with unexpected illness or injury. If your dog becomes unwell, talk openly with your vet about the options, the likely costs, and what feels manageable for you. Together, you can tailor a plan that’s right for your dog and your situation.
Training is an important part of caring for your dog. It helps keep their mind active, strengthens the bond between you, and teaches them how to behave in everyday situations.
Dogs do not automatically understand the rules we expect them to follow. Training helps them learn what behaviours are appropriate and what we want from them.
One of the most effective and humane training approaches is reward-based training, also known as positive reinforcement.
What is Reward-Based Training?
Reward-based training works by rewarding the behaviour you want your dog to repeat.
When your dog performs the correct behaviour and receives something they enjoy, such as food, praise, or a toy, they are more likely to repeat that behaviour in the future.
For example, if you ask your dog to sit and immediately reward them when they do, they begin to associate sitting with receiving a reward.
With repetition, your dog learns to respond to the command even without a treat every time.
The Myth of Pack Leadership
Older training methods often suggested that dogs need a ‘dominant leader’ or ‘pack leader’ to control their behaviour.
Modern behavioural science has shown that this approach is unnecessary and can be harmful. Dogs do not need to see you as dominant; they simply need clear communication, consistency, and trust.
Positive training methods build a stronger relationship between dogs and their owners and help dogs learn more effectively.
Golden Rules of Reward-Based Training
Use rewards your dog values
The reward must be something your dog finds motivating. This may include:
- Small food treats
- Praise and attention
- A favourite toy
Different dogs are motivated by different things, so it is important to find what works best for your dog.
Timing is important
Rewards should be given immediately after the desired behaviour, ideally within a second. This helps your dog connect the behaviour with the reward.
Keep sessions short
Dogs learn best during short, frequent training sessions, so sessions of two to five minutes are often enough.
Always finish training on a positive note after a successful attempt.
Train one behaviour at a time
Focus on teaching a single command or behaviour until your dog understands it before introducing new ones. This helps prevent confusion and allows your dog to learn more quickly.
Use clear commands
Use short, consistent words such as ‘sit’, ‘stay’ or ‘come’.
Avoid using the same command for different behaviours, as this can confuse your dog.
Ignore mistakes
Dogs make mistakes while learning. If your dog performs the wrong behaviour, simply ignore it and reward them when they do the correct behaviour as punishment can cause fear or confusion and may slow down learning.
Avoid punishment
Shouting, hitting, or using equipment designed to cause discomfort can damage trust and increase anxiety.
Dogs learn best in an environment where they feel safe and confident.
Be consistent
Everyone who interacts with your dog should use the same commands and training approach. Consistency helps your dog understand what is expected.
Choosing Healthy Treats
Treats are an effective training reward, but it is important to keep your dog’s overall diet balanced.
Healthy options may include tiny pieces of cooked chicken or carrot slices.
If you use treats regularly during training, you will need to reduce your dog’s regular meals to avoid weight gain.
Using a Reward Marker
A reward marker is a signal that tells your dog they have done the correct behaviour and that a reward is coming.
Common markers include:
- Saying ‘yes’
- A clicker sound
- A visual signal such as a thumbs-up (useful for deaf dogs)
To teach the marker, pair it with a reward repeatedly so your dog learns that the signal predicts something good.
Markers help make training more precise, especially when your dog is further away from you and sometimes, it’s quite difficult to get a treat out of a treat pouch and to your dog in a second or less!
Training Classes
Training classes can provide helpful guidance, especially for new dog owners.
When choosing a class, look for one that:
- Uses reward-based methods
- Avoids punishment or aversive tools
- Focuses on building positive relationships between dogs and owners
Training can begin as soon as your puppy has completed their initial vaccinations, but dogs of any age can benefit from learning new skills.
Keep Training Fun
Training should always be a fun and rewarding experience for both you and your dog. Short sessions, patience, and positive reinforcement will help your dog learn new behaviours while strengthening the bond you share.
Reverse sneezing happens when a dog rapidly draws air in through their nose, producing a loud snorting or honking sound. It can look dramatic and worrying, but in most cases it is harmless.
Episodes are usually short lived and do not require treatment. However, if reverse sneezing begins suddenly, happens very frequently, or seems to affect your dog’s wellbeing, please speak to your vet.
What Does Reverse Sneezing Look Like?
During an episode, your dog will:
- Stand still with their neck extended
- Rapidly pull air in through their nose
- Make a loud snorting or honking noise
It can appear as though they are choking or struggling to breathe, but most dogs remain bright and aware. Episodes typically last between 30 to 60 seconds and stop on their own.
How to Help During an Episode
Most episodes resolve without intervention, so:
- Stay calm and reassure your dog (if they seek it)
- Speak softly and gently stroke them
- Lightly massage the throat area (if it they are comfortable with you doing this)
Some owners find that briefly covering one nostril encourages the dog to swallow, which may help stop the episode. If you attempt this, do so gently and without causing distress.
When is Treatment Needed?
If reverse sneezing happens only occasionally and your dog is otherwise well, no treatment is usually required.
You should contact your vet if:
- Episodes start suddenly and are frequent
- They are becoming more severe
- Your dog seems distressed
- There are other signs such as nasal discharge, coughing, lethargy or reduced appetite
Your vet may examine your dog’s nose and throat. In persistent or severe cases, further investigation under anaesthetic may be advised. This can include imaging or a procedure called rhinoscopy, where a small camera is used to examine the nasal passages.
Because reverse sneezing rarely occurs during a consultation, so recording a short video at home can be very helpful for your vet.
Allowing your dog to run off lead can be great exercise and enrichment. However, it is essential that your dog comes back reliably when called before giving them this freedom.
If a dog runs off and ignores recall, they may put themselves in danger.
Possible risks include:
- Busy roads and traffic
- Approaching unfamiliar dogs or people
- Chasing livestock or wildlife
- Becoming lost
- Being stolen
Because of these risks, it is important to make sure your dog responds consistently when you call them.
Training Safely While Building Recall
If your dog frequently runs off or ignores recall, continue practising with a long training lead attached to a harness. A long line allows your dog more freedom to explore while keeping them safe and under control.
Long leads should always be used away from roads and in areas where there is plenty of space.
Using a harness rather than attaching the lead to a collar helps prevent strain or injury to your dog’s neck if they reach the end of the line suddenly.
When to Let Your Dog Off-Lead
Only allow your dog off the lead in open spaces when you are confident they will return to you when called.
Until recall is reliable, choose secure areas such as enclosed parks or fields where your dog cannot run into dangerous situations.
Building recall gradually and safely will help your dog develop good habits and keep them protected while enjoying off-lead exercise.
Identification and Microchipping
Even well-trained dogs can occasionally wander off, so it is important that your dog can be easily identified.
Make sure that:
- Your dog’s microchip details are kept up to date (legal requirement)
- Your dog wears a collar or harness with an identification tag when in public (legal requirement)
Including your name and contact details on the tag helps ensure that you can be reunited quickly if your dog becomes lost, however collars can come off and this is why microchipping is so important.
Problems around a dog’s bottom are more common than many people realise, and while they can look worrying, most are not urgent. That said, some conditions do need quick veterinary attention, so it’s always best to get advice if you notice something unusual.
Bottom problems can cause discomfort, pain, or irritation, and dogs often show this through changes in behaviour rather than obvious signs. If you’re unsure what’s going on, your vet can help identify the cause and get your dog feeling more comfortable again.
Potential Causes
There are many possible reasons a dog might develop a bottom problem. Some of the most common include:
Worms
Intestinal worms can make a dog’s bottom itchy and uncomfortable, sometimes leading to scooting. In heavier infestations, worms may cause blood in the poo. It’s unusual to see worms in poo unless they’ve already been killed by a worming treatment.
Anal gland problems
Dogs have two small anal glands just inside the anus. If these don’t empty properly, they can become blocked or infected.
Blocked anal glands often cause itching, irritation and scooting, while anal gland abscesses are usually very painful. If an abscess bursts, you may notice blood, pus or open sores around the anus.
Prostate problems
Male dogs have a prostate gland, which sits just inside the bottom. Prostate disease can cause pain, difficulty pooing, and changes in urination, such as peeing more often than usual.
Anal furunculosis
This is an uncommon but painful condition that mainly affects German Shepherd Dogs. It causes deep sores to develop around the anus, which can bleed and be very uncomfortable.
Tumours
Lumps or swellings around the bottom can interfere with pooing and cause irritation or pain. Any new lump, or one that is growing or changing, should always be checked by a vet.
Rectal prolapse
A rectal prolapse happens when part of the rectum comes out through the anus. It appears as a red, tube-like structure under the tail and is often linked to severe straining. Rectal prolapses are rare but are an emergency and need immediate veterinary care.
Vulva or vaginal problems in female dogs
In female dogs, it’s important to check whether the problem is coming from the anus or the vulva (the entrance to the vagina).
Conditions affecting this area include vaginal prolapse, which appears suddenly as a large, red swelling, or pyometra, a serious womb infection that can be life-threatening. Dogs with pyometra may have vaginal discharge, drink more than usual, and start vomiting.
When to Contact Your Vet
Contact your vet if you think your dog has a problem with their bottom or back end. Even if it doesn’t seem urgent, it’s always better to get advice early. If you’re having a phone or video appointment, taking a clear photo of the area can be helpful.
Seek urgent veterinary care if you think your dog has:
Pyometra is a serious and life-threatening infection of the womb (uterus). It happens when the womb fills with pus, making dogs extremely unwell. Without fast treatment, pyometra can lead to dehydration, kidney failure, blood poisoning (sepsis) and, sadly, can be fatal.
Once a pyometra has developed, the most effective treatment is usually emergency surgery to remove the infected womb. This is why pyometra is always treated as an emergency.
Pyometra is most commonly seen in older, unspayed female dogs, but it can at any age.
Why Does Pyometra Happen?
Pyometra is usually caused by a bacterial infection, most often E. coli. The condition tends to develop four to eight weeks after a season (heat).
During a season, hormonal changes cause the lining of the womb to thicken and suppress the immune system slightly. While this is a normal part of the reproductive cycle, it also creates the perfect environment for bacteria to grow. If bacteria enter the womb at this time, a serious infection can develop.
There are two types of pyometra:
Open pyometra – the cervix is open, allowing pus or discharge to drain from the vulva. This can make the condition easier to spot.
Closed pyometra – the cervix is closed, trapping pus inside the womb. This form is particularly dangerous, as pressure can build up and the womb may rupture.
Signs of Pyometra in Dogs
Early symptoms can be subtle and are sometimes mistaken for normal ageing or mild illness. As the infection progresses, dogs often become very unwell.
Common signs include:
- Drinking more than usual
- Lethargy or weakness
- Reduced appetite or refusing food
- Vomiting
- A swollen or bloated abdomen
- Pus or blood-tinged discharge from the vulva (not always present)
- Collapse in severe cases
If you notice any of these signs, especially in an unspayed female dog who has recently been in season, contact your vet immediately. Acting quickly can save your dog’s life.
How is Pyometra Diagnosed?
Your vet will ask about your dog’s recent seasons and any changes in her behaviour, appetite or thirst. They will examine her abdomen and may perform an ultrasound scan to look at the womb.
Blood and urine tests are often carried out to assess how badly your dog is affected and to check organ function.
How is Pyometra Treated?
Emergency surgery
Most dogs with pyometra need urgent surgery to remove the infected womb. While this operation is similar to a routine spay, it carries a higher risk because the womb is enlarged, fragile and full of infection.
The earlier surgery is performed, the better the chances of survival. Delays increase the risk of complications, including the womb rupturing and infection spreading through the body.
Supportive care
Alongside surgery, dogs usually need:
- A fluid drip to treat dehydration
- Pain relief
- Antibiotics
Recovery at Home
Some dogs will need to stay in the clinic for a day or two after surgery. Once home, careful nursing is essential.
This usually includes:
- Strict rest to allow the wound to heal
- Preventing licking with a cone collar or recovery suit
- Giving all prescribed medications as directed
- Monitoring for signs of pain, infection or deterioration
Always contact your vet if you’re worried about your dog’s recovery.
Outlook
The outlook for dogs with pyometra depends on how quickly treatment begins and how unwell they are at the time of diagnosis. Many dogs recover well if treated promptly, but the risks are higher in older dogs or those who are already very sick.
Sadly, pyometra can be fatal if treatment is delayed.
Can Pyometra Be Prevented?
Yes. Spaying completely prevents pyometra and is the most effective way to protect your dog from this condition.
While most spayed dogs cannot develop pyometra, a very rare condition called stump pyometra can occur if a small piece of womb tissue remains after surgery.
When To Contact Your Vet
Pyometra is always an emergency.
Contact your vet immediately if your dog:
- Has recently been in season and seems unwell
- Is drinking excessively
- Has discharge from her vulva
- Is lethargic, vomiting or collapsing
You know your dog best, if something doesn’t seem right, it’s always safest to seek veterinary advice.
Your puppy’s first trips to the vet are an important part of their start in life. These early appointments are usually for vaccinations and sometimes microchipping. While most puppies cope very well, unfamiliar sights, smells and handling can feel a bit overwhelming at first. With a little preparation at home, you can help your puppy feel calmer and more confident, setting them up for positive vet visits in the future.
Helping Your Puppy Feel Comfortable
Puppies often enjoy being handled by people they know, but a vet visit is different. They’ll be examined by someone new, in a new place, and in ways that may feel unfamiliar.
Gentle training at home can help your puppy understand that being handled and checked over is nothing to worry about.
What You’ll Need
It helps to keep things simple and consistent:
- A thick towel or piece of vet bed to act as your puppy’s ‘vet mat’
- Small, tasty treats such as chicken, ham or their usual kibble
- A metal spoon or old earphones to mimic a stethoscope
Using the same mat each time helps your puppy recognise when training begins and ends. You can even bring it along to the vet, so they have something familiar to stand on.
Getting Used to Being Handled
Start by encouraging your puppy onto the mat and rewarding them simply for standing there. Once they’re relaxed, gently stroke areas they’re already comfortable with, such as their shoulders or along their back. Keep movements slow and calm, offering a treat after each touch.
Gradually introduce handling of more sensitive areas, including:
- Legs and paws
- Tummy and tail
- Head, eyes and ears
- Gently lifting the lips to look at the teeth
Take your time and keep sessions short, just a couple of minutes is plenty. If your puppy shows signs of worry, go back to something they’re happy with and try again later.
Practising Being Lifted and Examined
Puppies are often lifted onto a table for veterinary examination. This can feel strange, so practising at home can really help.
Place your towel on a secure surface, say a cue word like ‘lift’, and gently pick your puppy up. Once they’re on the surface, reward them straight away with treats given by hand or placed in front of them. When the treats are finished, gently return them to the floor and repeat.
Doing this little and often helps your puppy learn what to expect. If your puppy is wriggly, using a harness can help you keep them safe.
Getting Comfortable with Being Held
Some procedures, like injections, require your puppy to be held still. You can practise this gently at home by holding your puppy close to your body for a few seconds and offering a treat. If they wriggle, wait until they relax before rewarding them.
If a full hug feels like too much at first, simply place a hand around their body and build up slowly. Gradually increase the time your puppy is held, always keeping sessions calm and brief.
Preparing for Injections
Once your puppy is happy being handled and held, you can introduce the feeling of gentle pressure.
Gently hold the loose skin at the back of their neck for a second or two and reward generously. When they’re comfortable with this, lightly touch the same area with a finger from your other hand, again rewarding calmly. This helps your puppy get used to the sensations they may feel during injections.
Introducing ‘Vet Equipment’
You can also help your puppy get used to unfamiliar objects. Let them investigate a metal spoon, then gently place it on their chest for a moment before rewarding them. Slowly increase the time it stays there.
Using earphones or a toy stethoscope can make this feel more realistic. It’s also helpful for puppies to get used to people wearing items around their necks, as vets often do.
On the Day of the Appointment
A bit of planning can make the day itself much smoother.
Before You Leave
Stick with a harness or collar your puppy already knows, as new equipment can add unnecessary stress.
Bring:
- Their familiar towel or blanket
- A favourite toy
- Plenty of treats (they may not fancy unfamiliar ones)
Arriving at the Practice
If your puppy isn’t fully vaccinated, avoid letting them sit on the floor with other dogs. You may need to carry them in and keep them on your lap while waiting. Some practices are happy for you to wait in the car, just let the staff know you’re waiting.
In the Consultation Room
Place your towel on the table and allow your puppy to stand or sit on it. They may want to sniff around or stay close to you. That’s perfectly fine, just try to avoid picking them up unless necessary.
If Your Puppy Needs to Stay Overnight
Occasionally, puppies need to stay at the vet for monitoring or recovery. This can be worrying, but there are ways to help them feel more settled.
It’s helpful to bring:
- A towel or blanket that smells of home (not their favourite, just in case it gets soiled)
- Their usual food if they’re on a special diet
Always let the vet team know what your puppy normally eats and any routines that help them relax.
Building a Positive Relationship with the Vet
One of the best ways to help your puppy feel at ease is to make the vets a familiar place. Bringing them in every couple of months during their first year for a weigh-in and gentle check, with lots of praise and treats, can turn visits into a positive experience.
As well as boosting confidence, these visits help keep your puppy’s health on track and ensure their flea and worming treatments are always given at the correct dose.
With patience, preparation and kindness, your puppy’s first vet visits can be calm, reassuring and even enjoyable, laying the foundation for a lifetime of stress-free care.
Socialisation is one of the most important gifts you can give your puppy. It helps them grow into a relaxed, confident and friendly adult who can cope well with everyday life. During their first few months, puppies are especially open to learning about the world, and the experiences they have during this time shape how they feel and behave for years to come.
Handled gently and positively, socialisation builds resilience. Done too quickly or without care, it can feel overwhelming. The aim is not to expose your puppy to everything, but to help them learn that new experiences are safe and manageable.
Why Socialisation Matters
The first four months of a puppy’s life is vital as they go through a key learning phase often called the socialisation period. During this window, their brains are developing rapidly and are especially receptive to new sights, sounds, people and situations.
Puppies who experience the world in a calm, positive way at this stage are more likely to:
- Feel comfortable around people and other dogs
- Cope better with change and unfamiliar situations
- Grow into confident, adaptable adult dogs
Puppies who miss out on these early experiences may struggle later in life. Fear, anxiety and behaviour problems often stem from uncertainty about the world, rather than stubbornness or ‘bad’ behaviour. The good news is that thoughtful, kind socialisation early in life can prevent many of these issues.
If Your Puppy Seems Worried
It’s normal for puppies to feel unsure at times, especially when encountering something new.
Signs your puppy may be stressed include:
- Freezing or trying to move away
- Lowered body posture or tucked tail
- Yawning, lip licking or avoiding eye contact
- Reluctance to approach or sudden stillness
If you notice these signs, gently create distance from whatever is worrying them. Never force your puppy to approach something they’re unsure about.
Helping Shy or Nervous Puppies
Some puppies need extra patience and support, and that’s okay. Confidence grows at different speeds.
For shy puppies:
- Let them observe from a safe distance
- Allow them to approach people or situations in their own time
- Ask others to crouch down and avoid direct staring
- Stop interactions before your puppy feels overwhelmed
Food treats aren’t always helpful with shy puppies, as they may approach for the food rather than because they feel safe. Calm reassurance and choice are often more effective.
If your puppy continues to struggle, your vet can direct you to a qualified behaviour professional who can provide tailored advice and support.
Many well-meaning dog owners accidentally support puppy farming because of common misconceptions.
Here are some of the most common myths.
Myth 1: ‘If a breeder is licensed, everything must be fine.’
Reality
Registration or licensing does not guarantee high welfare standards.
Under Irish law, Dog Breeding Establishments must register once they keep six or more breeding female dogs. Some of these facilities have hundreds of dogs. While having a smaller number of dogs does not guarantee the dogs have higher welfare standards, having a large number of dogs is surely an indication of them being bred solely for profit?
Please note that only female dogs are counted under the legislation, puppies or male dogs are not, so a Dog Breeding Establishment will often have a lot more dogs on-site than you are aware of.
Even where premises are licensed, buyers should still:
- Visit the premises
- See the puppy with its mother
- Assess the environment themselves
Myth 2: ‘Seeing the puppy once is enough.’
Reality
Seeing the puppy briefly does not necessarily show how they were raised.
You should:
- Visit the puppy in the place where they were bred
- Observe the environment
- Meet their mother
- Ask questions about their health, their parent’s health, diet and socialisation.
A quick handover meeting does not provide this information.
Myth 3: ‘If the puppy looks healthy, the breeder must be responsible.’
Reality
Many puppies from low welfare breeding facilities appear healthy when first sold.
However, problems may emerge later, including:
- Inherited health conditions
- Behavioural issues due to poor early socialisation
- Infections or parasites
Responsible breeding focuses on the long-term health and welfare of both puppies and parent dogs.
Myth 4: ‘Buying online is the easiest way to find a puppy.’
Reality
Online marketplaces can make it difficult to verify where a puppy was bred.
Advertisements may look convincing even when the puppy was bred in poor conditions.
Always take time to:
- Verify the seller’s details
- Check the information required under Irish pet sale regulations
- Arrange a proper visit
Myth 5: ‘Buying one puppy won’t make a difference.’
Reality
Every purchase contributes to demand.
Choosing not to buy from suspicious sources reduces the financial incentive for large-scale breeding operations and helps protect animal welfare.
Hearing reports of dog theft can be worrying, and it’s completely understandable to feel anxious about your dog’s safety. Taking a few sensible precautions can help reduce the risk of your dog being stolen and give you peace of mind, without changing your dog’s enjoyment of daily life.
Dogs still need their walks, sniffing time and fresh air, so the aim isn’t to restrict their world, but to stay aware, prepared and confident.
Identification: Your Dog’s First Line of Protection
Making sure your dog can be clearly identified is one of the most important steps you can take.
All dogs in Ireland must be microchipped, and it’s vital that your contact details are kept up to date, especially if you move house or change your phone number. If your dog is ever lost or stolen, a registered microchip greatly increases the chances of being reunited with them.
Your dog should also wear a collar with an ID tag whenever they are in a public place. This is a legal requirement and should include your name and address.
Some owners also choose to note if their dog is microchipped and neutered, which may deter thieves hoping to breed from stolen dogs.
Finally, keep clear, up-to-date photographs of your dog from different angles, including any distinctive markings. Photos of you together can also help prove ownership if needed.
Staying Alert When Out and About
Most dogs are stolen opportunistically, so being aware of your surroundings can make a real difference.
When out walking:
- Stay alert to people or vehicles behaving unusually
- Avoid distractions such as mobile phones or headphones
- Trust your instincts, if something doesn’t feel right, move to a busier area
Varying your walking routes and times can also help, particularly if you tend to follow the same routine every day. Walking with a friend or another dog owner can be reassuring but always keep your focus on your dog.
Never leave your dog tied up outside a shop or unattended in a car. Sadly, it only takes seconds for a dog to be taken, and cars can become hot very quickly, even in mild weather.
If your dog is off the lead, make sure their recall is reliable. If you’re unsure, using a long training lead can allow them freedom while keeping them safe, especially in unfamiliar places.
Some owners also find it helpful to carry a personal alarm or use a GPS tracker attached to their dog’s collar or harness, though these should only be relied on as an added layer of security.
Keeping Your Dog Safe at Home
Gardens can be vulnerable spots, particularly front gardens or areas visible from the street. Try to keep your dog within sight when outdoors and avoid leaving them unsupervised for long periods.
Check that fences and gates are secure and locked and consider fitting a bell, so you’ll hear if a gate is opened. Good outdoor lighting can also help, especially during evening toilet breaks.
At home, remember to close and lock doors and windows when you’re out as this protects not just your dog, but your home as well.
Some people choose to use CCTV outside and inside the home as an added deterrent.
Social Media: Share….With Care
Sharing photos of our dogs online is a joy, but it’s worth thinking carefully about what information we’re also sharing.
Try to:
- Keep social media profiles private where possible
- Avoid posting details about your location or daily routines
- Wait until you’re home before tagging places you’ve visited
- Blur ID tags or visible address details in photos
Be cautious of strangers asking lots of questions about your dog online, especially about their breed, age or whereabouts.
When Someone Else is Caring for Your Dog
If your dog is staying with a sitter, walker or boarding kennel, take time to choose a reputable service. Ask for references, check reviews, and make sure they have appropriate security and insurance in place.
Your dog’s safety should always be a priority, whether they’re with you or someone you trust.
Other Helpful Considerations
Neutering your dog may reduce the risk of theft linked to breeding and offers several health and behavioural benefits.
If you breed puppies, be cautious when arranging viewings. Limit the number of visitors at one time, keep puppies in a secure area, and have another adult present if possible.
It’s also worth having a clear understanding within your household about who legally owns your dog. While it may feel uncomfortable to think about, written agreements can prevent disputes in difficult circumstances such as relationship break ups.
Dogs are naturally social animals, and play is an important way for them to interact, learn and build relationships. Regular play sessions can help strengthen the bond between you and your dog while also providing valuable mental and physical stimulation.
Spending time playing together also allows you to learn more about your dog’s personality and what motivates them. For many dogs, play is just as rewarding as food treats and can be a useful part of training and enrichment.
Play should always be enjoyable and safe for both you and your dog.
Understanding How Your Dog Likes to Play
Every dog has their own preferred play style. Age, personality and breed tendencies can all influence how a dog chooses to play.
Some dogs enjoy chasing moving objects, while others prefer tugging toys or searching for hidden items. Watching how your dog behaves when they are excited can give you clues about the types of games they will enjoy most.
Try introducing different toys and activities to see what your dog responds to best.
Many dog owners worry that if their pet is eating grass, it must mean they are unwell. Some believe dogs eat grass to make themselves vomit or because they are lacking certain nutrients.
However, research has not proven these common beliefs. In most cases, grass eating is normal behaviour and nothing to worry about.
More often than not, dogs eat grass simply because they enjoy it, especially in spring and summer when it is fresh, green and tender.
Is Grass Eating Normal?
Yes. Grass eating is very common in dogs and is not usually linked to illness or dietary deficiency.
There is generally no cause for concern if:
- The behaviour is occasional rather than excessive
- Your dog is otherwise bright, active and eating normally
- The grass has not been treated with pesticides or chemicals
Could it Be Boredom?
Sometimes grass eating can be linked to boredom or a lack of stimulation.
If your dog frequently seeks out grass to chew, consider whether they are getting enough:
- Physical exercise
- Mental enrichment
- Interactive play
- Food-based puzzles or training activities
Increasing enrichment both indoors and outdoors can reduce scavenging behaviours.
Important Health Considerations
Chemical Treatments
Always ensure the grass your dog is accessing has not been sprayed with herbicides, pesticides or fertilisers, as these can be harmful if ingested.
Lungworm Risk
Slugs and snails, often found in grass, can carry lungworm. Dogs can become infected by ingesting them or their slime.
Standard worming products bought in pet shops do not usually protect against lungworm so, speak to your vet about appropriate preventative treatment for your dog.
Grass Seeds
In summer months, grass seeds can become lodged in:
- Ears
- Eyes
- Paws
- Skin
This can cause pain, swelling and infection, so check your dog carefully after walks in long grass.
When Should I Contact My Vet?
While grass eating is usually harmless, you should seek veterinary advice if:
- Your dog is eating grass but refusing their normal food
- The behaviour becomes excessive
- Your dog repeatedly eats grass and vomits over several hours
- Your dog seems lethargic, uncomfortable or unwell
If your dog only wants to eat grass and not their regular diet, this is not normal and should be assessed.
Summary
For most dogs, eating grass is simply a normal behaviour, often because they like the taste or texture. It is rarely a sign of illness.
Monitor the habit, ensure your dog is protected against lungworm, provide plenty of enrichment, and contact your vet if anything about your dog’s behaviour or health concerns you.
If in doubt, always seek professional veterinary advice for peace of mind.
Worms are an unfortunately common problem for dogs, but the good news is that they’re usually easy to prevent and treat. With the right care and regular worming, most dogs stay perfectly healthy and avoid any long-term issues.
Dogs of all ages can pick up worms, but puppies are particularly vulnerable. Some types of worms can also pose a small risk to people, which is why routine prevention and good hygiene are so important for every household with a dog.
What Are Worms and Why Do They Matter?
Worms are parasites that live inside a dog’s body, most often in the gut. They feed on nutrients that your dog needs to stay healthy. While adult dogs often cope well with low-level infections, worms can make puppies very unwell and, if left untreated, may lead to more serious health problems.
Regular worming protects your dog and helps prevent worms spreading into the environment, where they can survive in soil for long periods.
The Most Common Worms in Dogs
There are four main types of intestinal worms that affect dogs:
Roundworms are the most common and can look like strands of spaghetti. Puppies are often born with them or become infected through their mother. Roundworms live in the intestines, but their larvae can travel through the body before settling back in the gut.
Hookworms are much smaller but feed on blood, which makes them particularly dangerous for young puppies. They are uncommon in Ireland but can be found in parts of Europe.
Whipworms live in the large intestine and are relatively rare. Many dogs show no symptoms unless the infection is heavy.
Tapeworms are flat, segmented worms that live in the small intestine. Dogs usually catch them by swallowing fleas while grooming or by eating prey animals. Small segments may sometimes be seen in your dog’s poo or around their bottom.
Although not an intestinal worm, lungworm is increasingly seen in Ireland and can cause serious illness. Not all routine wormers protect against lungworm, so it’s important to speak to your vet about the right prevention.
How Do Dogs Get Worms?
Dogs can pick up worms in a variety of everyday ways. Puppies may be infected before they’re even born or through their mother’s milk. Adult dogs can swallow worm eggs from contaminated soil, grass or poo, or become infected by eating raw meat, rodents or carcasses. Tapeworms are often linked to fleas, which is why flea control is an important part of worm prevention.

Treating and Preventing Worms
The best way to manage worms is prevention. Your vet can advise you on a worming plan that suits your dog’s age, lifestyle and risk factors.
Puppies need frequent worming during their first few months of life, while most adult dogs benefit from treatment every one to three months. Dogs that hunt, scavenge or live with young children may need more frequent treatment. Flea control is also essential to help prevent tapeworm.
Prescription wormers from your vet are the most reliable option. If you’re unsure which product to use, always ask for advice before treating your dog.
Xylitol (also known as wood sugar or birch sugar) is a widely used sugar substitute that is extremely dangerous for dogs. Even very small amounts can cause severe illness and may be fatal.
As it is found in many everyday household products, prevention and awareness are essential.
Why is Xylitol So Dangerous to Dogs?
In dogs, xylitol triggers a powerful release of insulin from the pancreas. The body mistakenly treats it like real sugar. This sudden surge of insulin causes blood sugar levels to drop rapidly a condition known as hypoglycaemia.
Low blood sugar can develop quickly and may lead to collapse, seizures or coma.
In some cases, xylitol can also cause acute liver failure. The exact reason for this reaction is not fully understood, but it can be life-threatening.
How Much is Toxic?
The amount needed to cause harm depends on:
- The concentration of xylitol in the product
- The size of the dog
However, only a small quantity can be dangerous. In some cases, a single piece of sugar-free chewing gum can make a small or medium-sized dog critically ill.
As product formulations vary, it is safest to treat any ingestion as an emergency.
What is the Timeline for Xylitol Poisoning?
Symptoms can develop rapidly, often within 30 minutes, but in some cases may take up to 12 hours to appear.
Do not wait for signs to develop before contacting your vet. Early treatment significantly improves outcomes.
Signs of Xylitol Poisoning
Symptoms may include:
- Vomiting
- Weakness or extreme tiredness
- Disorientation
- Tremors or seizures
- Collapse
- Unconsciousness or coma
If liver damage develops, additional signs may appear later and can be severe.
What Should I Do if My Dog Eats Xylitol?
Treat this as an emergency.
Contact your vet immediately or attend the nearest veterinary clinic. Xylitol is absorbed quickly into the bloodstream, so rapid intervention is critical.
If possible, bring the product packaging with you. This helps the vet determine how much xylitol your dog may have consumed.
How is Xylitol Poisoning Treated?
If seen early, your vet may:
- Induce vomiting to remove the product from the stomach
- Start an intravenous glucose drip to stabilise blood sugar
- Monitor blood sugar levels closely
- Perform blood tests to assess liver function
Dogs often require hospitalisation for monitoring over 24–72 hours.
If liver damage occurs, treatment becomes more complex and may require intensive or specialist care.
What is the Outlook/Prognosis?
When treatment is started quickly and blood sugar is stabilised early, many dogs recover well.
Delays in treatment increase the risk of:
- Severe hypoglycaemia
- Liver failure
- Permanent organ damage
- Death
Acting immediately can save your dog’s life.
Is Xylitol Dangerous to Other Pets?
Xylitol can also be harmful to other animals. All human food products, particularly sugar-free items, should be kept out of reach of every pet in the home.
Prevention Tips
- Check ingredient labels for xylitol or birch sugar
- Store sugar-free products securely
- Educate family members and visitors about the risk
- Avoid sharing human food with pets
Xylitol poisoning is a preventable emergency. Awareness, careful storage and rapid action if exposure occurs, are the best ways to protect your dog. If you are ever in doubt, contact your veterinary team without delay.
Many new owners are surprised by how much puppies bite, nibble and chew. However, this behaviour is completely normal. Puppies explore the world with their mouths, much like young children use their hands to investigate new objects.
During the early months of life, puppies also go through a teething stage. As their adult teeth begin to come through, they experience discomfort and feel a strong urge to chew to relieve the pressure in their gums.
Due to this, puppies will often chew whatever they can reach, including furniture, shoes, clothing and hands. Rather than trying to stop chewing entirely, the goal is to guide your puppy towards appropriate items to chew and help them learn how to interact gently with people.
Why Do Puppies Mouth and Play Bite?
Puppies naturally use their mouths when they play. In the litter, they spend a lot of time play fighting and mouthing their siblings and mother. This helps them develop coordination, learn bite control and understand social boundaries.
When puppies come into a new home, they may continue this behaviour with people because they see it as part of normal play.
Some puppies also mouth more than others. Energetic breeds and working breeds can sometimes be more enthusiastic in their play, which may include grabbing hands, sleeves, trouser legs or ankles.
It is important to remember that play biting is usually a temporary phase. Most puppies gradually grow out of this behaviour between three and five months of age as they mature and learn better ways to play.
Patience and gentle guidance during this period are key to helping your puppy learn appropriate behaviour.
Redirecting Puppy Biting
The most effective way to manage play biting is to redirect your puppy onto something more appropriate.
Keeping a variety of safe chew toys nearby can help. If your puppy begins mouthing your hands or clothing, calmly offer them a toy instead. Moving the toy and making it interesting will encourage your puppy to focus on it rather than your hands.
Interactive games such as tug can also be helpful when done safely. Using large, soft toys allows your puppy to grab and chew without accidentally catching your fingers.
Teething puppies may also benefit from suitable chews or teething toys that help relieve discomfort.
Over time, puppies learn that toys provide a satisfying outlet for chewing and play.
Identifying Triggers
Puppies often mouth more at certain times of the day. Understanding when this behaviour occurs can help you manage it more effectively.
For example, puppies may become more mouthy when they are tired, overly excited, bored, frustrated or hungry.
Keeping a note of when mouthing occurs can help you identify patterns. You may find that offering playtime, a short training session, a walk, or a chew toy at these moments helps prevent biting before it starts.
Removing Temptations
Certain items can be especially tempting for puppies. Loose clothing, dangling drawstrings, slippers and dressing gown ties can easily become targets for playful biting.
While your puppy is still learning, it may help to remove these temptations where possible. This reduces opportunities for unwanted chewing and helps your puppy focus on appropriate toys instead.
Puppies, Mouthing and Children
Puppy play biting can be particularly challenging when young children are involved. Puppy teeth are very sharp, and children may instinctively squeal, wave their hands or pull away quickly when bitten. Unfortunately, these reactions can make the situation more exciting for the puppy and encourage more biting.
For this reason, interactions between puppies and children should always be closely supervised. If active supervision is not possible, it is best to separate them temporarily using barriers such as baby gates.
Children should not be expected to manage mouthing behaviour themselves.
The Importance of Rest, Food and Exercise
Puppies need a lot of sleep; often far more than owners expect. Just like young children, overtired puppies can become irritable and overexcited, which often leads to increased biting.
Encouraging regular rest periods throughout the day can help prevent this.
Providing meals at consistent times is also important. Hunger can make puppies restless and more likely to mouth. Puppies have small stomachs, so need to eat several times a day.
Finally, puppies need appropriate levels of mental and physical stimulation. Opportunities to play, explore, train and interact help prevent boredom, which is another common trigger for chewing and biting.
Managing Persistent Biting
If your puppy continues to bite hard during play, you may need to briefly remove them from the situation.
One approach is to calmly guide the puppy away for a very short break from attention. This could mean leading them behind a stair gate or into another room for a brief moment until they settle.
The aim is to show the puppy that biting causes play and attention to stop. Once calm, they can return and try again.
These breaks should only last a short time so the puppy can associate the pause with the biting behaviour.
It is important not to use your puppy’s crate for this purpose, as the crate should remain a positive place where the puppy can relax.
What to Avoid
When teaching a puppy not to mouth or bite, certain approaches should be avoided.
Allowing puppies to chew on hands or fingers during play can encourage a habit that becomes painful as they grow older.
Making high-pitched squealing sounds may seem like a way to signal discomfort, but it often excites puppies and encourages more biting.
Punishing or scolding a puppy is also not helpful as harsh reactions can frighten puppies and damage trust. Instead, calm management, redirection and patience are far more effective.
A Phase That Will Pass
Although puppy biting can feel frustrating (and painful) at times, it is usually a normal stage of development. With consistent guidance, appropriate toys and plenty of patience, most puppies learn quickly that gentle play is the best way to interact with people.
By supporting your puppy through this stage, you will help them develop into a well-mannered and confident adult dog.
A season is a normal part of life for unspayed female dogs. Hormonal changes prepare the body for pregnancy, which is why your dog may seem a little different to her usual self. Some dogs become clingier or more restless, while others prefer their own space.
Although people sometimes refer to a season as a dog’s ‘period’, the bleeding you see is not the same as menstruation in humans. Instead, it’s a sign that your dog is entering her fertile phase. Being in season isn’t painful, but it can make dogs feel uncomfortable, unsettled or a bit out of sorts.
Dogs don’t go through menopause, so unless they are spayed, they will continue to have seasons throughout their lives, even in old age.
Signs, Symptoms and Behaviour
Every dog is different, but common signs that a dog is in season include:
Physical Signs
- A swollen, reddened vulva
- Bleeding or discharge (which may be red, brown or yellow)
- Licking their back end more than usual
- Urinating more frequently
Behavioural Changes
- Increased interest in other dogs or becoming unusually friendly
- Roaming or trying to escape to find male dogs
- Mounting or humping people, dogs or objects
- Moving their tail to one side when touched
- Restlessness, anxiety or nesting behaviours
Some dogs show only subtle signs, so it’s important to stay alert around the time you expect a season.
Caring For Your Dog During Her Season
Extra TLC
Hormonal changes can leave your dog feeling confused or unsettled, so a little extra reassurance goes a long way. Stick to a calm, predictable routine and provide gentle mental stimulation at home, such as puzzle feeders or enrichment toys. Walks are still important, but it’s best to choose quieter areas and times of day.
Preventing pregnancy
During her season, your dog will be highly attractive to male dogs and may actively seek them out.
To avoid an unwanted pregnancy:
- Keep her on a lead when out and about
- Avoid busy dog-walking areas
- Never leave her unattended in the garden
- Keep her separate from any unneutered male dogs, even within the home
If your dog does accidentally mate, contact your vet as soon as possible. Don’t try to separate dogs that are mating, as this can cause serious injury.
Managing bleeding at home
Some dogs bleed heavily, while others hardly at all.
To protect your home, you may find it helpful to:
- Limit access to carpets, sofas and bedding
- Use washable blankets or towels
- Consider dog pants or nappies indoors (these should be removed for walks and toilet breaks)
Preventing Future Seasons
Spaying (neutering) is the most effective way to prevent seasons and unwanted pregnancies. It involves removing the ovaries, and usually the uterus, so your dog can no longer come into season.
Other options, such as hormone injections or tablets, are available but are not commonly recommended, due to potential side effects. Your vet can talk you through the safest options for your dog.
If you ever feel unsure or worried while your dog is in season, don’t hesitate to contact your vet.
Cold weather can be tough on all of us, and our dogs are no exception. Shorter days, icy ground and dropping temperatures bring extra challenges, so a little forward planning can help keep your dog comfortable, healthy and out of harm’s way throughout the winter months.
When the temperature drops, it’s best not to leave dogs outside alone for long periods. Many pets spend most of their time indoors and aren’t used to extreme cold, which can put them at risk of hypothermia or frostbite.
Does My Dog Need a Coat?
Some dogs cope better with cold weather than others. Short-haired breeds such as Greyhounds, Dobermans and Staffordshire Bull Terriers often feel the cold quickly and can benefit from wearing a warm coat or jumper when outdoors. Puppies, senior dogs and those with medical conditions may also need extra layers.
Dogs with thick double coats, like Labradors, Huskies and German Shepherds, are usually more cold-resistant, but every dog is individual. If your dog seems reluctant to go outside, shivers, or slows down on walks, they may appreciate a little extra warmth.
Protecting Paws From the Cold
Cold footpaths, ice and grit can be hard on paws. If your dog starts lifting their feet, stops suddenly or whines on walks, their paws may be sore or too cold. Doggy boots can help, but they should be introduced gently at home first. If your dog isn’t happy wearing them, please don’t force the issue.
After winter walks, always wipe your dog’s paws to remove salt or grit, which can irritate skin and be harmful if licked.
Winter Walks: Staying Safe and Visible
If your dog is healthy, regular walks are still important, even in winter. Just take extra care in icy or slippery conditions, and don’t head out if it’s unsafe for you.
When walking in snow or frost:
- Trim excess fur between paw pads to help prevent painful ice balls forming
- Dress your dog warmly, if they feel the cold
- Keep well away from frozen lakes or ponds and always use a lead near water
- Dry your dog thoroughly once you’re home
If your dog has arthritis, cold weather can make stiffness and discomfort worse. Contact your vet if you notice any change in mobility or behaviour.
Walking in the Dark
Dark evenings can make walks riskier for both you and your dog.
To stay safe:
- Use reflective or flashing collars, harnesses or leads
- Wear bright or reflective clothing yourself
- Carry a torch or headlamp
- Stick to well-lit paths where possible
Only let your dog off the lead in secure, familiar areas well away from roads, and keep recall skills sharp. Walking with a friend can also offer extra reassurance on darker nights.
Keeping Your Dog Cosy at Home
Once indoors, small adjustments can help your dog stay snug and comfortable.
A warm, well-padded bed placed away from draughts can make a big difference, especially for older dogs and raised beds help keep dogs off cold floors. Extra blankets are always welcome, and some dogs appreciate wearing a light jumper indoors during particularly cold spells.
Indoor Games For Cold Days
If the weather makes outdoor exercise difficult, indoor play can help burn energy and keep boredom at bay.
Try:
- Gentle fetch using soft toys on carpeted floors
- Food puzzles or treat-dispensing toys to keep minds active
- Supervised games of tug, with clear rules for safe play
If your dog is less active during winter, you may need to slightly reduce their food intake to help prevent weight gain.
Extra Care For Older Pets
Cold weather can worsen joint stiffness and arthritis in older pets. Gentle exercise, warmth and regular vet checks are especially important at this time of year.
Watch Out for Hypothermia
In very cold conditions, pets can develop hypothermia. Signs include shivering, lethargy, weakness and pale gums. If you’re concerned your pet is too cold, warm them gently and contact your vet for advice.
We all love our dogs and want to show them affection. However, dogs communicate very differently from humans. Some behaviours that people see as loving can actually make dogs feel uncomfortable or stressed.
Learning how dogs communicate can help strengthen your bond and reduce the risk of misunderstandings.
Tight Hugs and Overly Restrictive Cuddles
Many people enjoy hugging their dog, but most dogs do not experience hugs the same way humans do.
Being tightly held can make a dog feel trapped because it restricts their ability to move away. Dogs usually feel safer when they have the option to leave if they become uncomfortable.
Signs your dog may not enjoy being hugged include:
- Turning their head away
- Tensing up
- Leaning away
- Flattening their ears
- Lip licking
- Looking around nervously
If your dog shows these signs, try showing affection through gentle strokes, play, or simply sitting together instead.
Prolonged Direct Eye Contact
Humans often associate eye contact with affection or connection, but in the canine world, prolonged staring can be interpreted as a challenge or threat.
While relaxed eye contact during calm interactions is normal, fixed staring can make some dogs uneasy.
To communicate politely in ‘dog language’, avoid intense staring and instead use relaxed body language and soft interaction.
Patting the Top of the Head
Reaching over a dog’s head to pat them can feel intimidating, especially if they don’t know you well.
A better approach is to let the dog approach you first and pet them on the side for a few seconds, then stop and see if they stay for more rubs or choose to move away from you.
Most dogs prefer being stroked on their chest, side or back.
If the dog leans in for more or nudges your hand, it’s usually a sign they are enjoying the attention.
Rushing Walks
Walks are way more than just exercise for dogs; they are an important way for them to explore the world.
Dogs rely heavily on their sense of smell, so stopping to sniff is a natural and enriching behaviour.
Constantly rushing them or pulling on the lead can be frustrating. Try to allow time for slower ‘sniff walks’ where your dog can explore their surroundings.
Changing walking routes occasionally can also make walks more interesting.
Forcing Social Interactions
Dogs are social animals, but they do not like every person or every dog they meet.
If a dog feels uncomfortable, they may show subtle body language such as:
- Tucking their tail
- Tensing up
- Lowering their head
- Lip licking
- Yawning
- Looking back at you
- Trying to move away
If you notice these signals, give your dog space and allow them to leave the situation.
Forcing interactions can increase stress and may damage your dog’s trust in you.
Loud Noises and Shouting
Dogs have very sensitive hearing so, loud voices or sudden noises can be frightening.
Shouting at a dog rarely improves behaviour and can increase anxiety or confusion. Calm, consistent training methods are much more effective.
Waking a Sleeping Dog
A sleeping dog may be startled if woken suddenly. This can cause confusion and, in rare cases, defensive behaviour.
It’s best to allow dogs to wake naturally or gently call their name from a short distance rather than touching them unexpectedly.
Understanding Dog Body Language
Dogs almost always try to avoid biting. Before a bite occurs, they usually show warning signals.
Early warning signs can include:
- Moving away
- Yawning
- Lip licking
- Sniffing the ground
- Raising a paw (stiffly)
If a dog feels more threatened, signals may escalate to:
- Growling
- Showing teeth
- Lunging
Learning to recognise these signals helps prevent situations escalating.
Why Socialisation Matters
Many bites occur because dogs feel frightened or overwhelmed by situations they were never properly introduced to when young.
Positive socialisation helps dogs learn that everyday experiences, such as meeting people, hearing noises or encountering other dogs, are safe.
If you are concerned about your dog’s behaviour, your vet or a qualified dog behaviourist can help.
Summary
Dogs communicate constantly through body language. When we learn to recognise and respect their signals, we create a safer and happier relationship.
Understanding what dogs enjoy, and what they find uncomfortable, helps us show affection in ways they truly appreciate.
To choose between dry of wet food, we need to look at the benefits of both.
Dry Cat Food
Pros:
• Available for all life stages
• Convenient and widely available
• More hygienic if left out for grazing
• Ideal for puzzle feeders
• Higher energy density than wet food
Cons:
• Less water content
Storage
Store dry food in a sealed bag or airtight container and check expiry dates regularly.
Does dry food clean teeth?
No. Dry food does not clean your cat’s teeth. Dental health depends on regular veterinary checks and, ideally, tooth brushing.
Wet Cat Food
Wet food comes in tins, pouches and trays.
Pros:
• Often very palatable
• Provides a source of water, promotes urinary health, weight control (less energy density), beneficial in constipation and to prevent dehydration.
Cons:
• Spoils quickly
• Attracts flies in warm weather
• Must not be left out for long periods
Open tins and pouches should be covered and stored in the fridge. Allow chilled food to return to room temperature before feeding, as many cats dislike cold food.
Cats’ response to low moisture foods is to concentrate their urine rather than drink more water, so it is probably best to feed a mixture of wet and dry food unless otherwise advised by your vet. Just ensure portions are adjusted correctly.
Ticks should be removed as soon as possible using the correct method and equipment.
What you will need:
A tick removal tool (available from pet shops or most vets)
Gloves
Step-by-Step Removal
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Calm your cat and gently part the fur to expose the tick
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Slide the tick remover flat against the skin and under the tick’s body
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Twist the tool slowly in one direction (usually clockwise) until the tick releases
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Check the skin to ensure the entire tick has been removed
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Clean the area with pet-safe soap and water
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Dispose of the tick by placing it in alcohol or wrapping it in tissue and flushing it away
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Wash your hands thoroughly
Never crush a tick with your fingers
Do not squeeze the tick’s body, as this can increase the risk of infection
Avoid using tweezers unless advised by a vet
If you are unsure or worried about removing a tick, contact your vet for advice.
Many dog owners feel they understand their dog well. However, dogs communicate very differently from humans, and most of their communication happens through body language.
Understanding these signals can help prevent misunderstandings and improve the relationship between dogs and people.
Research shows that most dog bites happen in familiar environments and often involve people the dog already knows. In many cases, the dog has given warning signals beforehand, but these signals were not recognised.
Learning to read dog body language can help keep both people and dogs safe.
Why Dogs Use Body Language
Dogs have lived alongside humans for thousands of years, but they still retain many of their natural instincts such as guarding, herding and hunting.
When a dog feels uncomfortable or threatened, they usually try to communicate this through body language first. Biting is generally a last resort, used when the dog feels they have no other option to make a scary situation stop.
Before this point, dogs often show a range of subtle signals to try to avoid conflict.
Early Warning Signs of Stress
Dogs often give subtle signals when they feel worried or uncomfortable.
Common early signs include:
- Turning their head away
- Lip licking or nose licking
- Yawning when not tired
- Sniffing the ground suddenly
- Raising a paw stiffly (not like ‘giving the paw’)
- Trying to move away
These behaviours are sometimes called calming signals. They are ways dogs try to reduce tension and communicate that they want space.
If you notice these signs, it’s best to give the dog some room.
Considering the Situation
Body language should always be interpreted alongside the situation your dog is in.
For example, a dog shaking their body after a swim is simply drying off. However, dogs may also perform a full body shake after a stressful event, such as meeting an unfamiliar dog or hearing a loud noise. This behaviour can help them release tension.
Looking at both the behaviour and the environment helps you understand what your dog may be feeling.
Signs Your Dog is Uncomfortable
When dogs feel worried or uneasy, their body language changes.
Signs to watch out for include:
- A low or tucked tail
- Stiff body posture
- Ears pinned back
- Avoiding eye contact
- Turning their head away
- Lip licking or repeated yawning
- Freezing or becoming very still
- Whale eye: when a dog turns their head slightly away but keeps their eyes fixed on something, so the white part of the eye becomes clearly visible. This can make the eye look wide or tense.
Some dogs may also roll onto their back but remain stiff rather than relaxed. This can be a sign of appeasement, meaning the dog is trying to show they are not a threat.
If you see these signs, it’s best to give the dog space.
Signs a Dog May Become Aggressive
If a dog feels extremely threatened or frightened, their body language may escalate.
Possible warning signs include:
- A stiff or rigid tail
- Very tense body posture
- Intense staring or fixed eye contact
- Ears pulled tightly forward or flat back
- Showing teeth
- Growling
These behaviours are serious warnings and ignoring them can increase the risk of a bite.
If a dog begins showing these signals, stop interacting and give them space immediately.
Why Dogs Sometimes Bite
Dogs may bite for several reasons, including:
- Fear or anxiety
- Pain or illness
- Feeling trapped or unable to escape
- Lack of socialisation with people or situations
Dogs that have not been gradually introduced to everyday experiences may find normal situations frightening, which can lead to defensive behaviour.
Summary
Dogs communicate clearly through their posture, facial expressions and movement. By learning to recognise these signals, we can respond appropriately and avoid situations that may cause stress.
Understanding what your dog is trying to say helps build trust — and leads to a safer, happier relationship for both of you.
Many common garden and house plants can be harmful to dogs. While some may only cause a mild upset tummy, others can lead to more serious illness, particularly if your dog eats a large amount.
Most dogs will naturally avoid plants that don’t smell or taste right to them. However, curious puppies and young dogs are much more likely to investigate with their mouths.
Knowing what plants to watch out for, and recognising the signs of poisoning, can help you act quickly if something goes wrong.
If you’re worried that your dog has eaten something they shouldn’t have, always contact your vet straight away for advice.

In some cases, only certain parts of a plant are toxic, such as bulbs, berries or leaves. As it’s not always easy to tell which parts are dangerous, it’s safest to keep your dog away from the entire plant.
Most plant poisonings cause mild symptoms, but some can be serious, particularly if several plants are eaten in a short space of time.
It’s also worth remembering that this isn’t a complete list. New plant risks are still being identified, and even plants not known to be toxic can cause problems if eaten in large quantities.
Are There Dog-Friendly Plants?
There’s no guaranteed list of plants that are completely safe for dogs. Plant identification can be tricky, and many plants, even those considered low risk, may still cause stomach upset if chewed or swallowed.
For this reason, it’s best to keep houseplants out of reach and supervise your dog in the garden and on walks.
Signs of Plant Poisoning in Dogs
Symptoms can vary depending on the plant and how much was eaten, but common signs include:
- Drooling or excessive salivation
- Loss of appetite
- Low energy or lethargy
- Vomiting or diarrhoea (sometimes with plant material present)
- Drinking or urinating more than usual
- Skin redness or rashes
- Mouth sores or ulcers
- Pale gums
- Muscle twitching or seizures
- Collapse
If your dog shows any of these signs, or you think they may have eaten a poisonous plant, contact your vet immediately.
Other Garden Hazards to Be Aware of
Gardens and green spaces can contain other hidden dangers:
Compost and grass clippings
These can grow harmful moulds and bacteria so, always store compost securely and keep dogs away from freshly cut grass.
Fungi and mushrooms
Often appearing in warm, damp conditions, especially in autumn and some mushrooms can be life-threatening if eaten.
Pesticides, weed killers and fertilisers
Many garden products are toxic to pets so, please avoid using them where your dog plays, and block off treated areas.
Grass seeds
Grass seeds can become lodged in your dog’s skin, paws, ears or armpits, causing irritation, infection and sometimes serious complications. They’re common in long grass during spring and summer, not just freshly seeded lawns.
Dogs are loved pets in many homes, but even the best-behaved dogs can develop habits that their owners can find frustrating. Pulling on the lead, jumping up at visitors or barking at other dogs are common issues that many owners experience.
The good news is that most unwanted behaviours can be improved with patience, understanding and the right training approach.
Some behaviours are minor annoyances, while others can affect a dog’s wellbeing or even become dangerous if not addressed early.
Does My Dog Need Help?
Small behaviour problems can sometimes be improved by revisiting basic training. For example, if your dog stops coming back when called, practising recall again in a quieter environment with fewer distractions can help rebuild the behaviour.
Dogs benefit from ongoing training throughout their lives. Even well-trained dogs may need occasional refresher training to reinforce good habits.
However, some behaviour problems are more complex and may require professional support.
When to Speak to Your Vet
If your dog’s behaviour changes suddenly or becomes more severe, it is always best to speak to your vet first.
Pain, illness or discomfort can cause behaviour changes in dogs, so it’s best to have a veterinary check-up to diagnose or rule out underlying medical causes before you start behaviour training.
Your vet may also recommend training advice or refer you to a qualified behaviour professional if needed.
Getting Help from Trainers or Behaviourists
If training at home is not working, professional support can be helpful.
A qualified dog trainer can help with common training issues such as:
- Loose lead walking
- Recall
- Jumping up
- Basic obedience
For more serious or complex problems, such as aggression or severe anxiety, a certified dog behaviourist may be recommended. Behaviourists assess the underlying cause of the behaviour and develop a structured training plan for both dog and owner.
Behaviour Modification Training
Behaviour modification focuses on helping dogs learn alternative, more appropriate behaviours but several approaches may be used, depending on the problem.
Reward-Based Training
Reward-based training focuses on reinforcing behaviours you want to see.
This approach may involve using the following as rewards:
- Treats
- Praise
- Play
- Toys
When dogs are rewarded for good behaviour, they are more likely to repeat it.
For example, if your dog chews household items, providing appealing chew toys and rewarding your dog for using them can help redirect the behaviour.
Punishment-based methods can cause fear and stress and can damage the relationship between dog and owner, so they are discouraged.
Counter-Conditioning and Desensitisation
Counter-conditioning and desensitisation aim to change a dog’s emotional response to something they find frightening.
This involves gradually exposing the dog to the trigger at a safe distance while pairing it with something positive, such as treats or praise.
As this technique must be done carefully to avoid making the problem worse, it is best carried out with guidance from a qualified behaviour professional.
This is not to be confused with ‘flooding’ a technique of over-exposing a dog to something they are afraid of to ‘get them over it’. The easiest way to describe flooding is to be put in a room full of spiders if you were terrified of them. This would be most likely to make your fear worse and distress you.
Active Supervision Around Children
Even well-behaved dogs should always be actively supervised when around children.
Children can behave unpredictably and may not recognise when a dog is becoming uncomfortable.
Teaching children how to interact calmly and respectfully with dogs helps reduce the risk of accidents.
Learning to Read Dog Body Language
Dogs communicate constantly through body language. Recognising early signs of stress can help prevent problems before they escalate.
Signs a dog may be uncomfortable include:
- Lip licking
- Yawning
- Turning their head away
- Moving away from a situation
- A stiff body posture
If you notice these signals, giving the dog space can prevent further stress.
Summary
Unwanted behaviour can be frustrating, but with patience and the right support, many dogs improve significantly.
The most important steps are:
- Understanding why the behaviour happens
- Staying calm
- Using positive reinforcement training methods
- Seeking professional help when needed
With time, guidance and consistency, many behaviour challenges can be successfully managed, helping both you and your dog to enjoy a happier life together.
Teaching your puppy where to go to the toilet is one of the first and most important things you’ll do as a new dog owner. The best way to succeed is by creating a consistent routine and sticking to it every day.
Puppies learn at different speeds. Some may understand toilet training within a few weeks, while others take longer. Accidents are a normal part of the learning process, even for puppies who pick things up quickly.
Creating a Daily Routine
Establishing a regular schedule will help your puppy learn when and where they should go to the toilet.
First Thing in the Morning
Take your puppy outside as soon as they wake up. Encourage them to toilet in the garden or designated outdoor area. In the early stages, using a lead can help prevent them from getting distracted and wandering off instead of focusing on the task.
You may also want to use a simple cue word such as ‘toilet’ or ‘wee’ so your puppy begins to associate that word with going to the toilet.
Frequent toilet breaks
Young puppies have small bladders, so cannot hold their urine for long periods. Take your puppy outside roughly every two to three hours during the day. As they grow older, they will gradually gain better bladder control and will need fewer toilet breaks.
After meals and sleep
Puppies usually need to go to the toilet shortly after eating. Taking them outside soon after meals can help prevent accidents indoors. You should also take them outside after naps, as well as after periods of excitement or play.
Rewarding Good Behaviour
When your puppy goes to the toilet outside, reward them immediately with praise and a small treat. This helps them understand that they have done the right thing.
Positive reinforcement encourages puppies to repeat behaviours that earn rewards, making it more likely they will choose to toilet outside in the future.
What to Do if There is an Accident
Never punish your puppy for going to the toilet inside the house. Puppies don’t have accidents deliberately; it simply means they were not taken outside in time.
Instead, clean the area thoroughly and continue following the routine. This helps prevent lingering smells that might attract your puppy back to the same spot.
Learning Your Puppy’s Toilet Signals
Many puppies show clear signs when they need to go to the toilet like:
- sniffing the floor
- circling
- becoming restless
When you notice these behaviours, take your puppy outside immediately and reward them when they toilet in the correct place.
If you are having difficulty toilet training your dog, your vet or veterinary nurse may be able to offer advice. They can also refer you to a qualified behaviourist if additional support is needed.
Some dogs reach adulthood without being fully house trained, often through no fault of their own. This may happen if the training process wasn’t completed when they were young or if they previously lived outdoors.
The good news is that adult dogs can still learn new habits.
With patience, consistency and a clear routine, most dogs can successfully learn to toilet outside.
Why Some Dogs Aren’t House Trained
While many puppies learn house training early, it doesn’t always go smoothly. Some dogs may never have been trained properly, particularly if they were kept in kennels or outdoor environments.
Other dogs may have had inconsistent training, which can lead to confusion about where they should go to the toilet. Teaching an adult dog new habits takes time and commitment, but many dogs learn surprisingly quickly.
How long it takes will depend on several factors, including:
- how consistent the routine is
- how quickly the dog learns
- the dog’s age
- their past experiences with toilet training
Other Reasons Dogs Toilet Indoors
Indoor accidents are not always caused by a lack of house training.
Dogs may also toilet in the house because of:
- stress or tension in the home
- separation anxiety
- territorial marking
- illness or medical issues
If your dog suddenly begins toileting indoors, please speak to your vet to rule out health problems.
Signs Your Dog is Not Fully House Trained
Dogs that are not fully house trained often return to the same areas repeatedly. These locations are frequently near doors, exits or particular rooms.
Some dogs may wee and poo indoors, wee inside but poo outside or poo inside and wee outside.
Many dogs also prefer to toilet when people are not watching. For example, they may leave the room or wait until their owner is out of sight.
This can happen if a dog has previously been punished for toileting indoors. Instead of learning where they should go, they simply learn not to go in front of people.
Dogs that feel anxious about toileting around people may take longer to house train and will need extra patience.
Establishing a New Toilet Routine
Creating a consistent routine is the most effective way to teach an adult dog where to go to the toilet.
Before You Begin
First, thoroughly clean any areas where your dog has previously toileted indoors. Dogs are attracted back to the same spots if the scent remains.
Use a biological washing solution or a pet-safe cleaner that removes odours completely.
Take Your Dog Outside Regularly
Take your dog outside:
- first thing in the morning
- last thing at night
- frequently throughout the day
Choose a specific toilet area in the garden and take your dog to the same place each time.
Let them walk around and sniff the ground, as this helps stimulate toileting.
Avoid playing games during these trips, as the goal is to help your dog focus on going to the toilet.
When your dog toilets outside, calmly praise them.
If nothing happens after about five minutes, bring them back inside but watch them closely. Try again after around 20 minutes.
At first, you may need to make several trips outside until the new routine becomes established.
Supervise Your Dog Indoors
During the early stages of training, supervision is essential.
Keep your dog within sight and watch for signs they may need to go outside.
Pay particular attention after:
- meals
- waking up
- play sessions or excitement
Signs Your Dog Needs the Toilet
Common signs include:
- sniffing the floor
- circling
- restlessness
- heading towards areas where they have toileted before
If you notice these behaviours, take your dog outside immediately.
Using a Dog Crate
Dog crates can be helpful when used correctly. Most dogs avoid soiling the area where they sleep.
If your dog is comfortable with a crate, it can be useful when you cannot supervise them directly.
However, the crate must be introduced positively so your dog feels safe and relaxed inside it, as a distressed dog may still toilet in the crate.
When You Cannot Supervise
When Leaving the House
During the early stages of training, it is best not to leave your dog alone for long periods.
If you must leave for a short time (less than two hours), your dog can stay in their crate if they are comfortable there and have had a chance to exercise and toilet beforehand.
For longer absences, confine your dog to a single room that is easy to clean in case of accidents.
At Night
Most adult dogs can sleep through the night without needing to toilet. However, some may still need a night-time break while learning.
Placing your dog’s bed or crate near your bedroom can help you hear if they wake up and need to go outside.
If they do wake up, take them outside calmly and quietly, then return them to bed without exciting them.
If accidents occur overnight, you may need to set an alarm temporarily until the routine becomes established.
What to Do About Accidents
Never punish your dog for accidents discovered after the event.
Dogs cannot connect punishment with something that happened earlier. Instead, they may become anxious when you return home, which can worsen the problem.
Simply clean the area thoroughly and continue with the training routine.
The ‘Guilty’ Look
Many owners believe their dog ‘knows they’ve done wrong’ because they appear guilty.
In reality, this behaviour is called appeasement behaviour. The dog is responding to their owner’s body language or tone rather than feeling guilt about the accident.
Dogs showing this behaviour are often trying to reduce tension or avoid conflict.
Building Long-Term Habits
Continue the routine for at least two weeks. During this time, your dog will begin to associate toileting outside with praise and rewards.
If they are not given opportunities to toilet indoors, they will gradually develop the habit of going outside instead.
Once progress is being made, you can slowly increase the time between trips outside while continuing to watch for signs that your dog needs to go.
Maintaining a regular schedule for feeding, exercise and toilet breaks will make the process easier.
House training an adult dog can take time and effort, but consistency and patience will usually lead to success.
If your dog’s eye looks red, puffy or irritated, it’s easy to assume it’s just a minor infection but many different conditions can cause these signs.
Eye problems can worsen quickly, so early treatment is very important. If you notice any change in your dog’s eyes, please contact your veterinary practice promptly. Delaying treatment can lead to more serious complications, including permanent damage to sight.
General Information
Redness and swelling are signs of inflammation. To help your vet assess the problem, make a note of any other symptoms, such as:
- Squinting or holding one eye closed
- Excessive blinking
- Rubbing at the face
- Watery, sticky or coloured discharge
- Sensitivity to light
- Cloudiness
- A change in the size or shape of the eye
If your dog appears painful, lethargic, or distressed, ask for an urgent appointment.
Common Causes of Red or Swollen Eyes
There are many possible causes, including:
Conjunctivitis
Inflammation of the lining of the eyelids and eye surface. This can be caused by bacteria, viruses, allergies or irritants.
Corneal Ulcers
A scratch or wound on the surface of the eye. These are painful and may cause redness, discharge and squinting. Ulcers require prompt treatment.
Foreign Bodies
Grass seeds, dust, sand, smoke or minor trauma (including a scratch from another animal) can irritate the eye.
Dry Eye (Keratoconjunctivitis Sicca)
Reduced tear production can leave the eye dry, inflamed and uncomfortable. Without treatment, this condition can cause long-term damage.
Allergies
Environmental or skin allergies can lead to itchy, inflamed eyes.
Eyelid or Eyelash Problems
Inward- or outward-turning eyelids, or eyelashes that rub against the eye, can cause ongoing irritation.
Glaucoma
Increased pressure inside the eye. The eye may appear red, cloudy, painful or larger than normal. Glaucoma is an emergency and requires immediate veterinary attention.
Uveitis
Inflammation inside the eye. You may notice changes in pupil size, colour or cloudiness. Uveitis can be linked to underlying illness.
Exposure Keratitis
More common in flat-faced breeds such as Pugs, Shih Tzus and Bulldogs. Because their eyes are more prominent, they may not blink fully, leading to dryness and inflammation.
Masses or Tumours
Growths affecting the eyelids or structures around the eye can cause irritation and swelling.
Ticks are small parasites that feed on the blood of animals and people. While they may look unpleasant, the main concern with ticks is that they can pass on infections, including Lyme disease. Ticks are most active during the warmer months and are commonly picked up in grassy or rural areas, especially where wildlife is present.
If you find a tick on your dog, it’s important to remove it promptly and correctly. Dogs that spend a lot of time outdoors, particularly in spring and summer, may benefit from regular tick prevention and your vet can help you decide what’s most suitable.
What Does a Tick Look Like On a Dog?
Ticks can be tricky to spot at first. When newly attached, they’re often no bigger than a pinhead and may look like a small lump or skin tag. As they feed, they swell and can grow to about the size of a small pea.
They are usually round or oval, shiny in appearance, and range in colour from brown or grey to pink or bluish grey. If you look closely, you may be able to see a tiny head and eight legs near the front of the body. As they are easy to miss when small, it’s a good idea to check your dog regularly after walks.
How Do Dogs Get Ticks?
Ticks don’t jump or fly. Instead, they wait on grass or low vegetation and cling on when a dog brushes past. Once on your dog’s coat, they crawl along until they find a suitable place to attach and feed.
Where Are Ticks Found?
Ticks are most common between spring and autumn, but they can be active year-round in mild conditions.
You’re more likely to come across them in:
- Woodlands and forests
- Long grass and meadows
- Bogland and farmland
- Gardens in areas with lots of wildlife, such as deer or sheep
How to Check Your Dog For Ticks
After walks, especially in higher-risk areas, run your hands gently over your dog’s body. Ticks often attach around the head, ears, neck, armpits, groin and tummy. Feeling for small bumps can help you spot them early, before they’ve had time to feed.
How To Safely Remove a Tick From a Dog
Removing a tick properly reduces the risk of infection. Using a tick-removal tool is the safest option and these are widely available from pet shops and veterinary practices.
In simple terms, removal involves gently parting your dog’s fur, sliding the tool under the tick, and slowly twisting until it comes away. Try not to squeeze the tick’s body, as this can increase the chance of infection. Once removed, check that no parts are left behind and dispose of the tick safely. If you’re unsure or worried about doing this yourself, please contact your local veterinary practice.
Never crush a tick with your fingers or try to burn it off or smother it with oils or creams.
Tick Prevention For Dogs
It’s not possible to prevent ticks completely, but you can reduce the risk by combining sensible precautions with parasite control.
Some helpful steps include:
- Sticking to paths and avoiding long grass during peak tick season
- Checking your dog regularly after walks
- Using a vet-recommended parasite treatment that covers ticks
Always speak to your vet before starting any new treatment, especially if you have both dogs and cats, as some dog products are toxic to cats.
When to Contact Your Vet
If you’ve removed a tick and your dog seems well, there’s usually no need to worry.
However, contact your vet if:
- You think part of the tick may still be attached
- The bite site becomes red, swollen or sore
- Your dog seems unwell in the days or weeks after a tick bite
Tick-Borne Diseases
Some ticks can carry infections. While these illnesses are uncommon, it’s important to be aware of them.
Lyme disease
Lyme disease is a bacterial infection that can affect dogs and people. Symptoms in dogs may include:
- Lethargy or depression
- Fever
- Loss of appetite
- Lameness or swollen joints
These signs can also be caused by other conditions, so always speak to your vet if you’re concerned. Lyme disease can usually be treated successfully if caught early.
Other tick-borne diseases, such as babesiosis or tick-borne encephalitis, are extremely rare in Ireland but can occur, particularly in dogs that have travelled abroad.
Can Humans Get Ticks?
Yes, ticks can attach to people as well as animals. While they can’t survive on humans for long, they can still bite and potentially pass on infections. Please see the HSE’s advice here.
Seeing your dog vomit or develop diarrhoea can be worrying, but the good news is that these problems are very common and are often mild. In many cases, they happen because a dog has eaten something that doesn’t agree with them, eaten too much, or had a sudden change in diet. This can irritate the stomach and intestines, leading to a condition called gastroenteritis.
Most dogs recover quickly with simple care. However, vomiting and diarrhoea can occasionally be signs of poisoning or a more serious illness, so it’s important to know when to seek veterinary advice.
Always contact your vet if your dog is repeatedly vomiting, has ongoing diarrhoea, seems unwell, or if they are a puppy, an older dog, or have an existing health condition.
What is Gastroenteritis?
Gastroenteritis means inflammation of the stomach and intestines. Dogs with gastroenteritis usually develop vomiting and diarrhoea and may feel uncomfortable or off their food. Thankfully, many cases settle within a few days with the right treatment and care.
A more serious form, called haemorrhagic gastroenteritis, can cause bloody vomit or diarrhoea and needs urgent veterinary attention.
Common Signs to Watch For
Dogs with an upset stomach may show a combination of the following:
- Vomiting
- Diarrhoea
- A painful or tense tummy
- Loss of appetite
- Low energy or lethargy
If these signs come on suddenly, worsen, or don’t improve, it’s important to speak to your vet promptly. While rare, severe gastroenteritis can be life-threatening, particularly in young dogs.
What Causes Dogs to Vomit or Have Diarrhoea?
There are many possible causes, ranging from minor to serious. These include dietary upsets, infections, parasites, food allergies, stress, and swallowing something they shouldn’t. In some cases, vomiting or diarrhoea can be linked to conditions affecting other organs, such as the pancreas, liver or kidneys.
Your vet will help work out the most likely cause, based on your dog’s symptoms, history and a physical examination.
When Should I Contact My Vet?
If your dog vomits once and then seems bright, comfortable and otherwise normal, you may be able to monitor them closely at home. However, you should contact your vet straight away if you notice any of the following:
- Repeated or continuous vomiting
- Blood in their vomit or diarrhoea
- Diarrhoea lasting more than 24–48 hours
- Severe watery or bloody diarrhoea
- Lethargy, collapse or disorientation
- Signs of dehydration (sticky gums, sunken eyes)
- Ongoing retching or a swollen abdomen, which can be an emergency
Trust your instincts, if something doesn’t feel right, it’s always best to seek veterinary advice.
How is Gastroenteritis Diagnosed?
Your vet will usually start with a full examination and ask questions about your dog’s recent diet, behaviour and surroundings. This helps them assess whether your dog may have eaten something unsuitable or been exposed to toxins.
If a more serious condition is suspected, further tests such as blood work, X-rays or scans may be recommended.
Treatment and Recovery
Treatment depends on the underlying cause and how unwell your dog is. Many dogs are treated with medication to settle vomiting and diarrhoea, alongside a short period on a bland, easily digestible diet.
Keeping your dog hydrated is vital. Mild cases can often be managed at home, but more severe cases may need fluids, through a drip, to prevent dehydration.
Most dogs start to feel better within a few days. If your dog isn’t improving, or their symptoms worsen, please contact your vet.
Caring for your dog at home (mild cases only)
If your dog has had a mild bout of vomiting or diarrhoea and seems otherwise well, your vet may suggest supportive care at home, such as:
- Small, bland meals given little and often
- Plenty of fresh water, offered regularly
- Rest, with no strenuous exercise while they recover
Never fast puppies, elderly dogs or dogs with other illnesses, unless your vet advises it.
Understanding Vomiting, Retching and Regurgitation
These can look similar but have different causes:
Vomiting requires effort to bring up digested or partially digested stomach contents.
Retching is gagging without producing much vomit. Repeated retching can be a medical emergency.
Regurgitation is the passive bringing up of undigested food, often soon after eating.
If you’re unsure which your dog is experiencing, your vet can help.
Types of Dog Vomit
What your dog brings up can give useful clues about what’s going on in their stomach and photos are a great help to your vet.
Vomit may contain:
Bile (stomach acid): usually yellow or green in colour and often frothy or foamy.
Food: this may be partially digested or completely undigested and is commonly brown but can vary depending on what your dog has eaten.
Blood: this can appear bright red, dark brown or black. Blood that has been partially digested may look like coffee grounds.
If you notice blood in your dog’s vomit, contact your vet straight away.
Grass: many dogs eat more grass when they feel nauseous, so it’s not unusual to see this in vomit.
Sharing your life with a cat can be hugely rewarding. However, caring for a cat properly is a long-term financial commitment. Before bringing a new cat or kitten home, it’s important to understand the likely costs involved over their lifetime.
Many cats live well into their mid to late teens, and some reach 18–20 years of age. Planning ahead helps ensure you can provide consistent care throughout that time.
Below is a guide to the typical costs associated with cat ownership in Ireland. Please note that prices can vary depending on location, product choice and your cat’s individual needs.
Ongoing Monthly Costs
Regular monthly expenses generally include:
- Food: €25–€70 (depending on brand and dietary needs)
- Litter: €20–€35
- Routine parasite prevention: €10–€20
- Pet insurance (if chosen): €20–€35
Monthly costs often fall between €75 and €150 but may be higher if your cat requires a specialist diet.
Annual Costs
In addition to monthly expenses, you should budget for:
- Annual veterinary health check and vaccinations: €60–€120
- Professional pet sitting or boarding (if needed): €150+ depending on duration
Unexpected illness or injury can result in significant veterinary bills. Insurance can help spread risk, but policies vary. Look for cover that protects your cat for ongoing conditions over their lifetime rather than for a limited period.
Microchipping and Neutering
Microchipping is strongly recommended for all cats. It greatly increases the chances of being reunited if your cat goes missing. While not currently a legal requirement for cats in Ireland, it is considered best practice for responsible ownership.
Outdoor Access and Cat Flaps
If you plan to allow outdoor access, a microchip-activated cat flap is recommended. These open only for your cat, helping prevent entry by other animals. Installation costs depend on the type of door or wall involved.
Even if your cat goes outdoors, it is advisable to provide an indoor litter tray at all times.
Planning for the Future
Beyond everyday expenses, please also consider:
- Emergency veterinary treatment
- Dental care
- Age-related health conditions
- Long-term medication
- Holiday care
The overall yearly cost of owning a cat in Ireland can easily exceed €1,500 per year, depending on circumstances.
Making an Informed Decision
Cats depend entirely on us for their welfare. Before taking on the responsibility, make sure you are comfortable with the long-term financial commitment as well as the time and care involved.
If you would like advice about preparing for a new cat, neutering support, or responsible ownership, please chat to your local animal rescue organisation or veterinary practice.
Vaccinations play a vital role in protecting dogs from serious and potentially life-threatening diseases. Whether you have a new puppy or an adult dog, keeping their vaccinations up to date is one of the most important steps you can take to safeguard their health.
This page explains why vaccinations matter and which ones your dog may need.
Why are Vaccinations Important?
Vaccines help your dog’s immune system recognise and fight dangerous infections, before they can cause illness. Many of the diseases we vaccinate against are highly contagious and can be fatal, particularly in young puppies or dogs with weaker immune systems.
Keeping your dog vaccinated also helps protect other dogs in the community by reducing the spread of disease.
Vaccination is often required if your dog:
- Stays in boarding kennels or doggy day care
- Attends training classes, shows or group activities
- Travels abroad
Which Vaccinations Does My Dog Need?
All dogs should receive core vaccinations, which protect against the most serious and widespread diseases.
Core vaccines protect against:
Parvovirus – a highly contagious virus causing severe vomiting and diarrhoea.
Canine distemper – a serious disease affecting the lungs, gut, immune system and nervous system.
Infectious hepatitis (adenovirus) – damages the liver, kidneys and blood vessels.
Leptospirosis – a bacterial infection that can cause kidney and liver failure and can also infect humans.
Optional (Non-Core) Vaccines
Some dogs may also benefit from additional vaccines depending on their lifestyle:
Kennel cough – recommended for dogs that mix with other dogs or attend kennels or day care.
Rabies – legally required for dogs travelling outside Ireland.
Your vet will help you decide which vaccinations are appropriate for your dog.
Keeping Unvaccinated Dogs Safe
If your puppy or dog is not yet fully vaccinated:
- Avoid public places where dogs gather
- Do not allow contact with unvaccinated dogs outside your household
- Stick to secure, low-risk areas such as your own garden
Once vaccinations are complete, your dog can safely begin exploring the wider world.
Encounters between dogs and deer can happen unexpectedly, so it is important for owners to manage their dogs carefully in these environments.
Most deer will try to avoid people and dogs. However, if they feel threatened or if a dog chases them, the situation can quickly become dangerous for both the wildlife and your dog.
Before visiting forests, parks or nature reserves, it is also helpful to check if there are local rules requiring dogs to remain on a lead to protect wildlife.
Your dog should always be microchipped and wearing a collar with an ID tag, with contact details kept up to date.
Why it’s Important to Prevent Chasing
Allowing a dog to chase wildlife can cause serious harm. Deer can become exhausted or injured when pursued, and dogs themselves may be injured if a deer defends itself.
In Ireland, dog owners are legally responsible for keeping their dogs under control. If a dog worries livestock or wildlife, the owner may face penalties under Irish dog control legislation.
Preventing your dog from chasing wildlife protects both your dog and the animals sharing the environment.
Times When Deer May Be More Defensive
Although deer usually avoid confrontation, they may behave more defensively during certain times of the year.
You should be especially cautious during:
- Birthing season (May to July) when females may be protecting young calves
- Rutting season (September to November) when male deer may be more territorial
During these periods, keeping your dog close and avoiding areas where deer are present is particularly important.
What to Do if a Deer Approaches
If a deer moves towards you or appears agitated:
- Remain calm and move away slowly
- Try to place a large object, such as a tree, between you and the deer
- Give the animal space so it can move away safely
Most deer will leave once they feel they are no longer threatened.
Deer, Ticks and Your Dog
Areas where deer live can have higher numbers of ticks.
After walking your dog in areas where deer are present:
- Check your dog’s coat carefully for ticks
- Remove any ticks promptly using an appropriate tick removal tool
- Consider using preventative tick treatments recommended by your veterinary practice
Regular tick checks are particularly important after walks in woodland, long grass or bogland.
Bringing a puppy into your life is exciting. For many families, it marks the beginning of years of companionship, fun and loyalty.
However, behind some puppies advertised online or sold through classified sites, lurks breeding facilities where dogs are bred only for profit.
Puppies are not blank slates, they are a combination of genes, breed traits and the first few weeks of their lives, the environment and experiences they have been subjected to.
Puppy farming remains a significant welfare concern, so we strongly advocate for people to adopt a dog or puppy where possible.
Unfortunately, many people unknowingly support unscrupulous breeders, simply because they don’t know what to look out for when buying a puppy.
This page will help you understand:
- How puppy farming operates in Ireland
- The laws designed to regulate dog breeding
- The warning signs when buying a puppy
- How to find a responsible breeder or adopt safely
Most importantly, it will help you make a choice that protects both your future dog and the welfare of breeding animals.
How Confident Are You That You Could Recognise a Puppy Farmer?
Many people feel confident; until they see the warning signs.

The Reality of Puppy Farming in Ireland
Ireland has historically been one of the largest exporters of dogs in Europe. While some breeders operate responsibly, there are also dog breeding establishments where dogs are kept for the commercial production of puppies.
While poor welfare can take place at any sized breeding establishment, some have very large numbers of breeding dogs and very few staff to look after them.
Even when licensed, dog breeding can raise serious welfare concerns if standards are not properly monitored or enforced.
Dogs in intensive breeding environments may experience:
- Repeated breeding cycles
- Limited socialisation
- Confinement for long periods
- Health or behavioural issues
When puppies from these environments are sold to families, the consequences can include veterinary problems, behavioural challenges and emotional distress for both the dogs and their owners.
How to Find a Responsible Breeder
If you decide to buy a puppy rather than adopt, take time to research the breeder carefully.
A responsible breeder will:
- Allow you to visit the premises more than once
- Show you the puppy happily interacting with their mother
- Provide health records and microchip information
- Ask questions about the home the puppy is going to
- Raise puppies in a clean, enriched environment
They will also be transparent about their breeding practices and happy to discuss the long-term welfare of their dogs.
What Does Irish Law Say?
Ireland has introduced legislation intended to regulate dog breeding and improve transparency for buyers.
Two important pieces of legislation are:
Dog Breeding Establishments Act 2010
This law requires any premises with six or more female dogs capable of breeding to register as Dog Breeding Establishments (DBEs).
Local authorities are responsible for inspecting and maintaining registers of these establishments.
However, registration alone does not guarantee high welfare standards, and buyers must still carry out careful checks.
Sale, Supply and Advertising of Pets Regulations 2020
These regulations were introduced to improve transparency in the sale of pets.
They require that:
- Advertisements for pets must include the seller’s registration or DBE number
- The puppy’s microchip number must be provided
- The puppy’s date of birth and age must be stated
- Sellers must provide identification and traceability for pets
These measures are designed to help buyers trace where a puppy came from and discourage illegal breeding and trading. However, many buyers are not aware of these rules, which means illegal or misleading adverts can still go unnoticed.
Consider Adoption
There are hundreds of dogs in Ireland right now waiting for homes through animal charities and rescue organisations, and they often have puppies available for adoption.
Adopting a dog can be incredibly rewarding and also helps reduce the demand that fuels large-scale breeding, as well as creating space for another dog in a rescue.
Rescue centres can also help match dogs to suitable homes based on lifestyle and experience.
Every Buyer Has the Power to Make a Difference
Puppy farming continues because there is demand for puppies.
By choosing where and how you get your dog, you can help shape the future of dog welfare in Ireland.
Before bringing home a puppy:
- Take time to research rescues, breeders, dog breeds
- Ask lots of questions
- Walk away if something doesn’t feel right
Choosing responsibly protects not only your future dog, but also the welfare of the dogs used for breeding. Unscrupulous breeders only breed because there’s a demand for their puppies!



























